CC: Stable Cafe

What does CC mean?

Subject: Stable Cafe 

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

As you walk through a city, it's interesting to see how some businesses cooperate to make the most of a space. Granted, it's rare but sometimes, you see a well-executed set-up where two or three businesses share a common space and make it work beautifully.

In my time in San Francisco, I happened upon Stable Cafe, a coffeehouse and eatery that was reputed to serve some superb infusions of De La Paz coffee. When I arrived, I discovered that the space was home to several businesses, including an architect, bike courier and the Three Babes pie counter (their salty honey walnut pie set my tongue a-dancing).

But pie and bikes aside, I was really there for the coffee. The place was designed most appealingly, with a black exterior, large windows and an adjoining patio area. Inside, the cafe is two levels, with exposed wood rafters and an effective capitalization of space for seating.

I ordered an espresso of the Oscillations blend and a drip of the El Sana Morello. The drip produced notes of honey, corn, sassafras, vanilla, maple and a smidgen of beef broth; a tasty cup with a mellow sweetness. The espresso, pulled to a medium volume and with light brown crema, gave off the flavors of dark cocoa, basil, lemon torte, sesame seeds and bran. Both the coffee and espresso were prepared well and aside from minor imperfections, were both delicious.

If you are looking for an inspiring space to grab some good coffee and possibly get some other things done through stellar local businesses, give Stable Cafe a visit. 

Mugged: Traditional Roast [Gevalia]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Gevalia Kaffe 

Mugged: Traditional Roast

Rating: 4+ [see key]

While I am a strong advocate for roasters who go above and beyond to not only produce a fine product but also educate the masses on better coffee practices, I will concede that most folks do not seem interested in that yet. Sure, people are more and more treating their coffee like fine wine and craft beer, but most people still consider their big-name coffees something more akin to a brand of ketchup.

But to the credit of some coffee roasters who have long held a stigma of mediocre product in fancy packaging, there is a concerted effort to make better coffee available. Take Gevalia, a long-time producer of coffee from Sweden who is best known for their "buy our coffee online and we'll give you a free coffee maker" approach. While the old coffee-&-coffeepot method still rolls on, they seem to have additionally dove into the practice of selling their beans whole bean with more of an emphasis on quality.

Curious as to how this distantly roasted-&-packaged coffee held up under scrutiny, I accepted the offer to review a bag of their Traditional Roast whole bean. I brewed it in the usual three manners of drip, french press and siphon.

The drip sent out a cup brimming with notes of cocoa, sweet corn, sourpatch kids, tea with cream and rice pudding. The body was light, mellow and the overall flavors were tasty.

The french press held similar notes, with cocoa, honey, wheat, rice pudding, torte and cream amidst a medium body. Also a good cup though not as delicious as the first.

The siphon brewed a coffee with wheat, cocoa, corn chip, rice, cream and a hint of ginger. Also satisfying, though a bit too mellow in flavor potency.

To my chagrin, the only concerns I had about this coffee were that the flavors were a tad muted. But for a coffee coming from Gevalia, I was quite pleased (though since this one was sent right to me, I wonder if/how they manage to keep the coffee fresh with in-store bags). If you're in the market for a decent medium roast from a giant coffee roaster, give Gevali'a's Traditional Roast a try.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Alaska Coffee Roasting Co.

What does CC mean?

Subject: Alaska Coffee Roasting Co.

Location: Fairbanks, AK

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 5+ [see key] 

When the sun does not shine for a good part of the winter, I would imagine that your morning cup of coffee would hold an even greater significance. Hence, it would make sense that Alaskans would be terribly picky about the quality of their brews, not wanting to settle for a coffee that can only offer sparkles of taste instead of an inferno of flavor. 

 

Thus I had heard that in the Golden Heart City of Fairbanks there lay a coffee roaster that made a quality cup of coffee. This roaster was aptly titled the Alaska Coffee Roasting Co. I pulled into the strip mall housing the cafe and roastery one dreary morning, happy to walk in and find a cafe with warm wood and Alaskan-esque art creating a warm ambiance around a sea of wood seating. 

 

I ordered for myself a drip of their Ethiopian Harrar and an espresso of their Milan San Reno. The drip resounded with notes of fuji apple, buttered bisquit, walnut and a palatable sweetness; a hearty and pleasantly-piquant coffee. The espresso, pulled to a medium volume with a dark marbled crema, held notes of jalapeno, bittersweet cocoa, nutmeg, parsley and a little cream. The shots were tasty, though slightly unbalanced (a little too much spicy and bitter notes). The tea is free leaf. 

 

To put it mildly, I thought the ACRC did a pretty good job in delivering a splendid coffee experience. If you happen to be in Fairbanks, stop in at the Alaska Coffee Roasting Co. 

 

Mugged: Costa Rica [Rev Coffee]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Rev Coffee Roasters

Mugged: Costa Rica Tarrazu Dota

Rating: 4+ [see key]

Georgia is another state that I have designs to see in the coming decade. At this point, I've only spent time in Atlanta but there's a lot more I'm fixing to do. Of course, one of those things of course is to visit some coffee venues; one of the said venues would be Rev Coffee Roasters in Smyrna. 

But in the interim, they sent me out a pound of coffee of their Costa Rica Tarrazu Dota to try. Per the regiment, I happily had it via drip, siphon and french press.

The drip produced notes of white zinfandel, honey, cornbread, basil, a bit of fig and some minor hay in a medium body. A sweet cup with a bit of sharpness.

The french press held flavors of honey, white zinfandel, bran, wheat cracker and some spinach. A bright cup with some minor sharp qualities.

The siphon demonstrated white zinfandel, honey, wheat, spinach, corn, bran and a little apple amidst a medium body. This was the smoothest of the three infusions. 

While I found this coffee a little sharp in some infusions and teensy bit underwhelming, it did indeed prove delicious and a nice coffee for a mellow afternoon. If you're in the market for a good Costa Rican, give Rev Coffee a swirl.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Flying Squirrel

What does CC mean?

Subject: Flying Squirrel Bakery Cafe

Location: Talkeetna, AK

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 4+ [see key] 

I find great joy in finding and exploring new places, especially if that new place holds some serious character. Places like the Bay Area (San Fran) and Bozeman, MT with their unique magic set my heart ablaze and my mind into hyperdrive.

But of all of the places I've been in the States, one the most interesting has to be Talkeetna, Alaska. Built as a railroad hub (the town only in the past decade got a paved road leading to it from the highway), the town has served as a place for fishermen and mountain climbers to set up a base of operations since the early 1900s. Much of the beautifully quaint town is historic and also offers grand places to eat such as the Talkeetna Roadhouse (there I had the most amazing breakfast) and the West Rib Cafe and Pub.

To complete any gem of a town, one needs a good coffeehouse. Sadly, there was no place trumpeted by locals or coffee geeks, but upon some further research, it seemed that the Flying Squirrel Bakery Cafe right outside town was my best bet for a good cup. Serving K-Bay Coffee from Homer, a coffee I had yet to sample, I had my fingers crossed that it would be worth my time. I made my way over, pulling off the the access road into their unpaved parking lot and beheld the log cabin that is the cafe. Inside, there's a massive kitchen as well as a healthy seating area full of random tables, a vaulted ceiling, paper lanterns and warm colors. 

I ordered an espresso of their espresso blend (I failed to get a name) and a drip infusion of a blend mixed of a K-Bay coffee and a Silverhook coffee (also no specific name that I found). The drip produced a cup with a heavy body, dotted with notes of minestrone, romaine, tea biscuit, clove and vanilla. The brew was a bit too dark and a tad stale, but overall it was tasty. 

The espresso, pulled short/medium with a brownish crema, held flavors of bitter cocoa, fig bar, ginger, basil and a bit of lemon on the back end. Also a fairly palatable extraction, but not too stellar. It should also be noted that they sell alcohol and have a gorgeous ever-changing menu.

While the town of Talkeetna blew me away with its character, I found the Flying Squirrel to be less impressive in regards to their coffee and espresso (the food I had was top notch). All that seems needed for stellar would be just a little more attention to detail with the espresso and maybe a different coffee (on the lighter side) for the drip. Nonetheless, still glide into Flying Squirrel if you're passing through for a decent cup.

Mugged: El Salvador [Kifu Coffee]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Kifu Coffee Roasters

Mugged: El Salvador Santa Rita Natural

Rating: 4+ [see key]

How a coffee is processed after harvest has a huge impact on what you end up drinking. Yes, this statement is obvious and elementary to most people reading this, but it seems a lot of people still remain oblivious to it. Yet for the still small recognition it gets, it really exemplifies the huge role that the farmers play in making great coffee. Stellar beans come from back-breaking work and lots of thorough processing.

One of the older methods of processing coffee that today has flared up in popularity is the dry process, which allows the cherry to dry on the bean, resulting in the bean absorbing much more of the fruit then in other methods like the wet fermentation or machine-assisted wet processing. Recently I was able to try out one of Kifu Coffee's dry processed coffees, this one from El Salvador, a coffee reputed to have lots of apple. I sampled it via drip, siphon and french press.

The drip produced a cup with grapefruit, nutmeg, corn on the cob, shredded wheat, a little hickory and some earthiness amidst a medium body. A bright and smooth coffee that proved fairly delicious. 

The french press held less brightness, with less flavor of grapefruit but still similar tastes of corn on the cob, nutmeg, shredded wheat, powdered sugar and hickory amidst a medium body. This cup proved also delicious though not as wonderful as the drip. 

The siphon proved in the middle of the other two infusions, with a bright flavor more resembling a tea of rose petals, although corn and grapefruit still appeared in addition to sugar, nutmeg and a little smokiness within a medium body. Overall good. 

Kifu's El Salvador proved to be a spiffy dry processed coffee, though I never really found the brightness to be like an apple (more tart then most apples I've had). Aside from some minor over-piquant notes and some light smokiness (it didn't seem to fit), I would heartily recommend this coffee.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Quixotic Coffee

Subject: Quixotic Coffee

Location: St. Paul, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key] 

A good name is all too important when you first dub your coffee business. While some go for simple ("town's name coffee") or pun-ny ("sir ippee coffee"), something that projects a good mental concept is what I find to be best. Few places have done a better job in setting my mind ablaze with visual imagery then Quixotic Coffee.

Fortunately, finding and interacting with Quixotic Coffee was anything but quixotic. I found their location in a nice strip of shops near the Mississippi River with large open windows. Within, the place is a bit dark, with rich red walls, a black ceiling and a very minimalistic layout complete with a conference room in the back. 

Moving on to the coffee, I ordered two drinks that utilized Mad Cap Coffee (though they also rotate in other roasters): a drip of their Santa Lucia Costa Rican and an espresso of their 3rd coast blend. The espresso, pulled short with dark tan crema, demonstrated black berry jam amidst a creamy texture, with hints of coriander, sesame and light salt (a delicious and skillful pull). The Costa Rican came out blazing with bullets of cherry, hefeweizen, coca cola, cascara, black tea and a little fig amidst a medium body; also a tasty cup of coffee all too pleasant.

Unlike Don Quixote, I found exactly what I was hoping to find in Quixotic Coffee. Definitely give them a go if you're in the Twin Cities. 

Mugged: Ethiopian Yirgi [Peter Asher]

'

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Peter Asher Coffee and Tea

Mugged: Ethiopian Yirgi

Rating: 4+ [see key]

The second of the coffees I have had the pleasure of trying out from Peter Asher Coffee and Tea was their Ethiopian Yirgi (short for Yirgacheffe). It was summarized as a great coffee for one's morning cup and being a big fan of a good coffee in the AM, I girded my loins and poured myself a cup via the usual three different methods of drip, french press and siphon.

The drip rolled out notes of cranberry juice, chocolate, candied walnut, molasses, pork chop and a bit of cumin amidst a light/medium body. A sweet brew with a tiny bite.

The french press held out a similar cup, with notes of blackberry, bittersweet chocolate, honey, molasses, sage and cornflakes. A slightly piquant brew with decent balance.

The vacuum press delivered chocolate, blackberry, a little wheat, cheerios, honey and cornflakes amidst a medium body. Sweet with ample notes of grain.

While I can't say that this Yirgacheffe was the best I've had, it definitely ranks as a coffee that I would dub as a well-suited companion for the traditional light American breakfast (cereal, pastry, etc). If you're looking for a light, sweet-noted Ethiopian, give Peter Asher's a swirl.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

Thanks to my current sponsors!

I would simply like to extend my heartfelt appreciation to my sponsors. Their partnership with the Pure Coffee Blog helps keep the blog going and me better able to create better content. 

A BIG THANKS to:

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J. Martinez & Company

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Moka Pot

 

CC: Cafe Del Mundo

What does CC mean?


Subject: Cafe Del Mundo

Location: Anchorage, AK

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 5+ [see key]

When I had first heard of Anchorage coffee a decade ago, the two cafes that were mentioned to me were Cafe Del Mundo and the Kaladi Brothers. Then a little under a year ago, Kaladi purchased Cafe Del Mundo, though the pledge was to keep the two separate, aiming to keep Cafe Del Mundo the same as it has always been.

With this in mind, I strode through the doors of Anchorage's oldest coffee roaster-and-retail shop, not caring so much as to whether the coffee was still true to the del Mundo ways as I hoped for a solid coffee experience. The cafe itself stood arrayed in a calm,1980s-wood-and-soft-lights manner, with a counter stretching the length of the store and plenty of hearty wooden chairs for patrons to utilize. 

Before I found a seat near two European posters, I ordered myself a drip of their Papua New Guinea and an espresso of their Espresso Blend. The espresso, pulled to a medium volume with blonde crema, held notes of milk chocolate, cream soda, cookie dough as well as some cayenne, notes of basil and a slight burnt character. The shots weren't the best but still offered a respectably balanced and tasty spro. 

Moving on to the Papua New Guinea, the coffee relayed qualities of nuts, grass, honey, slight minestrone with celery, a pinch of sage and raw sugar. A refreshingly delicious brew that proved smooth and easy to savor.

Having later tried Kaladi Brothers (that review will come soon), I can vouch that Cafe Del Mundo is still noticeably different then it's new owner. While I felt the skill in preparation of my coffee was slightly lacking (mainly, the espresso could have been better pulled), I can say that I enjoyed my experience. Give Cafe Del Mundo a visit when you're in town. 

Mugged: Better Morning Blend [Kifu]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Kifu Coffee Roasters

Mugged: Better Morning Blend

Rating: 3+ [see key]

If there's two types of coffee blends you can find at most coffee roasters, it's an espresso blend and a morning blend. The espresso blend serves a function (it's the blend we use for our espresso) but the morning blend seems to be something carried over from early 20th century advertising that really serves no concrete purpose except that it's usually a light or medium roast coffee that typically goes swimmingly with pancakes.

Recently, I had the opportunity to sample Kifu Coffee's Better Morning Blend, a light/medium coffee that appeared to have good potential for the post-breakfast coffee market. I put my pancakes aside and tried it out via my french press, siphon and drip apparatus. 

The drip produced a cup flowing with grilled steak, blackberry, curry, birch, some baked apple and a fairly heavy body. An intriguing compilation to say the least with the bright notes coupled with the steak and curry.

The french press offered similar notes of steak, cilantro, buttermilk, birch, baked apple and corn amidst a medium to heavy body. A smoother cup though still a bit off with the taste of steak.

The siphon had the sweetest cup, with the flavors of molasses, corn, bran, biscuit, maple syrup and birch amidst a medium/heavy body. 

While I did find Kifu's Better Morning Blend a decent coffee amongst morning blends, there were certain aspects to it that held it back in my book (such as the grilled steak and the heavy body). But then again, if you're looking for a coffee to go well with a heavy breakfast, this coffee might be a perfect fit (if you do give it a try, let me know).

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

new logo and design

Yes, we're changing up the design. Let us know what you think, as it shall prove to be an ongoing work over the next few weeks.

CC: Apple Pie Bakery Cafe (CIA)

What does CC mean?

Subject: Apple Pie Bakery Cafe 

Location: Hyde Park, NY

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

To be perfectly honest, a lot of mainstream chefs have let me down with the breadth of their culinary knowledge. Sure they know their food, and most at least understand their wine, but very few masters of the kitchen seem to have even heard of high quality coffee. Sadly, this seems to have stemmed largely from many sources (archaic benchmarks, corporate sponsors, etc), with poor coffee being found rampant amongst the nations finer culinary institutions.

But just when I was about to lose hope in the movers and shakers of the culinary realm, a little blue bird confided in me that the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park was serving up Counter Culture beans a la french press as well as in their espresso machine, all from within a cozy, CIA bistro dubbed the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe. Thankfully, I happened to be winding up the Hudson River one weekday and thus, I made a stop in for lunch and some coffee.

The CIA itself has a nice parking garage for visitors and finding your way through the campus was none too difficult. The Apple Pie Bakery Cafe exists in Roth Hall and is accessed in one of its many hallways. The cafe, decked in bright colors and light from large windows, was brimming with patrons, both visitors and members of the school, either eating their lunch or communing over coffee. 

I ordered a french press of a Nicaraguan (in my haste, I did not write down which Nicaraguan) and an espresso of the Toscana blend. The espresso held a monotone brown crema and was pulled to a short/medium volume. It held flavors of bittersweet cocoa, lemon, cider, potato chip, a bit of salt and romaine. The shots were definitely pulled in a more traditional (Italian) fashion but the use of great beans made this a great espresso. The Nicaraguan held notes of subtle roses, cherry candy, asian pear, sweet tea, seaweed salad and a bit of caramel in smooth, light/medium body. 

To put it succinctly, I was delighted with my experience. The CIA proved that at least some of the culinary intelligentsia in the world recognize good coffee. If you happen to be in Hyde Park or close by, stop by the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe for a stellar lunch, snack or great cup of coffee.

Mugged: Geisha [Sea Island]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Sea Island Coffee

Mugged: Geisha, Costa Rica

Rating: 4+ [see key]

It's hard to believe that coffee trees used to be confined to East Africa, especially in today's world economy where a place with the right climate will grow coffee on at least one farm. Some places, like the island of Java, trace it's coffee trees to about the 17th century, but even today some coffee varieties are still being exported.

One such variety that has gotten an excessive amount of publicity is the geisha variety, primarily for the hefty price it fetched in some Cup of Excellence auctions. Having had the pleasure of sampling some that fabled expensive coffee, I was impressed with it then and since, I've welcomed opportunities to try similar varieties. My most recent encounter with a geisha is from Sea Island Coffee with their Geisha, Costa Rica, the second of the two coffees sent out for review. I sampled it via drip, french press and siphon.

The drip relayed notes of honey graham cracker, wheat, strawberry, a bit of cocoa, anise and some peppercorn amidst a medium body. A delicious coffee though the peppercorn proved not an attractive facet.

The french press issued a brew with more graham cracker and wheat, strawberry and a little peppercorn and cocoa within a medium body. Also good minus peppercorn.

The siphon was my favorite of this coffee, demonstrating notes of honey, a bit of nuttiness, strawberry, cocoa and hay.

Encapsulated, I can't say I'd pay as high a price as the CoE geishas fetched, but Sea Island still roasts a good geisha. Especially if you're on the right side of the Atlantic, give Sea Island's Costa Rica Geisha a swirl.



note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: De La Paz

What does CC mean?

Subject: De La Paz Coffee Roasters

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

There have been countless times when my travel plans and coffeehouse hours have not lined up. Usually late afternoons, nights and holidays play the culprit, though it always seems to be a weird mix of factors (the owners are getting married on a Wednesday). But sometimes I wander into a blessed form of a Bermuda Triangle where all the factors line up and the timing becomes perfect.

Such it was with De La Paz Coffee Roasters. I managed to find some time to show up during the small window of Friday between 8 AM - 1 PM, the only time this roaster's soon-to-be-coffee-bar serves up coffee and espresso to the masses. The space would be hard to spot from the street were it not for the street sign, but since they seem to want to move in the direction of a speak-easy-like bar setting (one that serves amazing coffee and espresso), it seemed fitting. 

Inside the atmosphere was basic, more utilitarian then it was inviting (it's under construction), but the mood of the De La Paz-ians more then compensated. Few places held such a jovial nature; there were folks from Sightglass (literally, the coffee roaster around the corner) hanging out and shooting the breeze with their "competition" (a beautiful instance of comradery rarely seen in most industries). I was quickly greeted upon my entering in a friendly manner, though also given my space to peruse and acclimate.

I finally settled on their Oscillations blend for some espresso and a pourover of La Violeta, a micro lot from Costa Rica's  Finca El Llano in Tarrazu. The Violeta proved delicious, with notes of lager, peanut, caramel, a little hyacinth, spinach and pinch of lemon zest amidst a medium body. The espresso also gave a stand up performance, with the flavors of almond, butter, tangerine, wheat thins and sage performing amidst a short pull with brown crema.

Apparently their new digs are due to open up in February, so if you happen to live in the Bay area or you plan to visit, keep your Friday AM open if you go pre-opening.

Mugged: High Jump [Deep Cello]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Deep Cello

Mugged: High Jump

Rating: 4+ [see key]

Of all the sports I played throughout my life, Track & Field was my favorite. As a javelin thrower and shot putter, I would get to spend nice spring days chucking objects around a field with little pressure other then to make sure my throws were comparable to the upcoming competition (cutthroat, huh?). 

But if you were to ask me which events were the toughest amidst the old Olympic events, I always thought anything that involved flinging yourself into the air was pretty bold. Pole vault definitely scared the skittles out of me (I'm big and uncoordinated; let me just use a skinny stick to launch my weight over a 9 foot wall) and long jump seemed risky (jump as far as you can and land on your tailbone). The only one that looked fun and worth the risk was the high jump. 

But even though I never got to try the high jump in the field, I was able to taste Deep Cello's High Jump blend in my mug. A light roast sent out to me to review, I dove into it via the three infusion methods of drip, siphon and french press.

The drip threw out subtle notes of milk chocolate, butter, wheat toast, peanuts, honey, cranberry and cinnamon amidst a medium body. A tasty infusion with a variety of flavors. 

The french press was a little different, with notes of pie crust, milk chocolate, vanilla, clove and cranberry jumping out amidst a medium body.

The siphon polished off with an smooth infusion of milk chocolate, wheat toast, cranberry, peanut, honey and bran within a medium-bodied brew. 

Overall, I found the coffee to be tasty with lots of flavor, though the potency was not as strong as I would have liked and the flavors a little too piquant. Nonetheless, still a good coffee; try the High Jump if you're looking for a decent light-roasted blend. 

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback. 

CC: The Cup

What does CC mean?

Subject: The Cup

Location: Las Vegas, NV

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 4+ [see key]

My final coffee stop in Sin City was a place that was also located in the Crystals, a shop located very discreetly in the back first floor called the Cup. Rumored to me by one source to have decent espresso, it took me a walk or two around the Crystals to actually find it but only around the corner and down the stairs from my earlier coffee stop.

A cute-looking venue with a huge orange window and tons of white, the place has a nice array of art and furniture, perfect for the tourist looking for a break from the crowds. Asking the barista of the coffee, they informed me it was "their own" (which in trying to clarify, I wasn't able to decipher whether it was a "secret supplier" situation or they roast their own, though my guess is the former). I ordered a doubleshot off their Victoria Arduino machine of their espresso blend and their signature blend a la regular drip.

The espresso, pulled short/medium and with a flat brown crema, was a tad burnt in the front, with notes of dark cocoa, deep sassafras and lapsang souchong; an overall decent pair of shots though the extraction could have been better. The drip proved pleasant as well, with a smooth, light body and notes of honey, hyacinth, multigrain, wheat grass and brazil nut as well as a tinge of slight staleness (twas later in the day, so the pot probably sat). The tea is Stash.

While I wasn't as floored as I had hoped to be, the Cup still provided a fair coffee and espresso experience, especially compared to the many other coffee stands doling out over-roasted swill nearby. Thus, if you're in the Crystals looking for a cafe that has a nice environment and decent coffee, try the Cup. 

Can a Super Automatic Produce Good Espresso?

Many coffee lovers either own or covet their own home espresso operation. To have stellar shots and scintillating lattes in the comfort of one's living quarters is almost as good as having your own personal butler-barista (kind of like Kato in the recent Green Hornet film). 

Yet many folks who strongly love espresso seem to go without an espresso machine simply because to get a quality espresso machine (like a La Marzocco or Rancilio), a micrometrical-adjustable burr grinder and the other necessary components (tamper, steel milk jug, etc) not only costs a handsome cent, but pulling quality shots takes practice and passion, calling for time and energy. Some folks just don't want to or cannot make such an investment. 

But if you're willing to compromise on quality, the good news is that the obstacles of cost, time and complexity go right out the door. Appliance empires have churned out thousands of no-skill-needed, super automatic espresso machines, allowing the average coffee drinker access to mediocre - palatable espresso, cappuccinos and the like at the push of a button.

This all brings the obvious question: can a super automatic machine (one that grinds, tamps, pulls the shots, steams the milk and cleans itself without human aid) concoct decent espresso and cappuccinos? To try to address this query, the folks at Philips Saeco and at Ultimo Coffee in Philadelphia agreed to allow me to compare and contrast a high-end super automatic machine (Saeco's Syntia) next to Ultimo's high-end commercial La Marzocco.   

Heading over one brisk night to Ultimo coffee, joined by owner Aaron Ultimo, we set up the super automatic on a free bar top and began the experiment. We used the same water, milk and beans (Counter Culture's Toscano) to keep the variables low. 

As a higher priced super automatic, the Syntia machine boasts being certified by Italian coffee tasters as being able to produce an authentic espresso and cappuccino (sadly, I can't say that this means much as I've had horrible espresso from such "certifications"). The Syntia is also truly super automatic, as one button grinds the beans and pulls the shot for you; similarly if you want a cappuccino, you hit a different button and it grinds, pulls the shot and steams the milk too. 

Keeping the espresso function on the "short pull" setting, the shots were of a 3-4 ounce volume (a little high for "short") with an even, light brown crema. The flavor was reasonable, as it held all of the prominent flavors of the Toscano espresso blend but it fell flat after that, really lacking the subtler nuances of a good espresso. The body was dry and the drink overall proved lackluster. Adjusting the grind wasn't really too effective in changing the outcome, as the shots remained similar as we made the grind finer (to accommodate for the initial high volume). Overall, the espresso proved fair, with the flavors none too bitter and of a mediocre level.

Testing the cappuccino, the machine steamed the milk first and then dropped the shots in, creating an odd vampire bite in the milk. Once again, the flavors were fair, with the milk and espresso producing a dry beverage with a muted sweetness and bit of cardboard. The machine produced little in the way of microfoam and overall, the integration of the espresso and milk was haphazard at best. Still, I have to admit that the beverage was still drinkable and on par with what I've had at some 2+ or 3+ cafes. 

Moving onto Ultimo's La Marzocco, one of Ultimo's baristas pulled some glorious shots that embodied a complexity of flavors including bittersweet chocolate. The shots were balanced and smooth, with a brown crema and velvety body. Ultimo's cappuccino also proved stellar, with a creamy texture of sweet milk complimented with notes of cocoa and honey. The latte art also showed strong integration of the elements.

Clearly Ultimo's professional baristas made better drinks, yet in comparing their product to the Syntia's, I have to submit that a non-coffee geek would probably be satisfied with this super automatic. Using top notch milk, fresh well-roasted coffee beans and filtered water, the espresso and cappuccinos were decent enough in taste to make the average coffee drinker happy (especially if one plans to laden said drinks with lots of sugar and syrup).

If you're looking for a simple (though expensive) espresso machine to make you a fair cappuccino, you would be justified in getting something akin to Saeco's Syntia. But if you have hopes of duplicating a drink you've had at a shop like Ultimo Coffee, try out CoffeeGeek's guide here on what equipment to buy.

Mugged: Brazil [Peter Asher]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Peter Asher Coffee and Tea 

Mugged: Brazil Bob-O-Link

Rating: 4+ [see key]

Rounding off one of the busier coffee review periods of my year was Peter Asher Coffee and Tea. A coffee roaster that's been roasting for twenty years, I was glad to meet their acquaintance and review two of their coffees. 

The first up is their Brazil Bob-O-Link, a coffee touted to possess citrus, black tea and nut flavors. The coffee appeared of a medium roast (dark brown & no exterior oils) and I cupped it via siphon, french press and drip.

In sipping the drip, I noted flavors of honey, leather, bran, nuts, fig and spinach amidst a medium body.

The french press possessed sweet pecans, honey, fig, pear, romaine, a bit of wheat and medium body. This infusion held much more brightness and potency.

The siphon rolled out molasses, cocoa, pear, cornbread, romaine, fig and a little milk within the medium body. Not as much nuttiness in this cup but still a good coffee.

Simply put, the Bob-O-Link definitely sampled variably but overall, I could definitely see the notes of sweetness, a little nuttiness and emphasis on bran or cocoa. A good coffee overall though not my all-time favorite Brazilian. Still, if you seek a quality Brazil coffee, visit Peter Asher's website to try out the Bob-O-Link. 

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Santa Claus House

What does CC mean?

Subject: Santa Claus House

Location: North Pole, AK

Free WiFi ? : no

Rating: 4+ [see key]

It's not often that I get astonished by an unexpected coffee find, but I guess Santa knew exactly what I wanted when I visited his house on a trip to the North Pole (Alaska). 

The day had a few things on the list and what trip to the center of Alaska would be complete without a stop at the North Pole. Not only are the streets and town a Christmas-themed wonderland but it's also home to a shop called Santa Claus House. The place not only has lots of cool gifts, including letters "from Santa", but also reindeer and a plenty of Christmas-y scenery for pics. 

Scurrying through the doors, the first thing that caught my eye was that Santa had his own cafe, a cute corner outlined with colorful striped wallpaper. Not thinking Santa to have a decent coffee operation (I believed him more into cocoa), I initially passed it by but after a sweep past and noticing the non-oily beans in the espresso hopper, I questioned the jolly barista as to their coffee wares. It turned out that they serve North Pole Coffee Roasting Company, using their espresso blend (I believe Espresso Classic) for their shots and the North Pole Blend in their pump pots. 

Curious, I ordered a doubleshot and a cup of the drip, and on both accounts I was pleasantly surprised. The espresso, though pulled a little long (about 3-4 oz) and with thick, blonde crema, it held a milky texture with the flavors of bitter cocoa, cinnamon and gingerbread, which were not only fitting but a delicious combination. The drip smacked of almond milk, chocolate, beef broth, oregano, light tea and a light/medium body. I did not note the tea.  

With a ho ho ho, I polished off my drinks and deemed my stop at Santa's abode a nice surprise. Were the baristas a little more fanatical in their espresso skillty / coffee prep (as the coffee itself seemed fresh, tasty and well-roasted), the coffee here could be top notch. If you ever manage a trip to North Pole, AK make sure to pay Santa a visit at the Santa Claus House. 

Mugged: Ethiopian Sidamo [Kifu]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Kifu Coffee Roasters 

Mugged: Ethiopian Sidamo Korate

Rating: 5+ [see key]

 

 

 

 

If there's anything that warms my heart, it's a microroaster that roasts good beans and gives back to the community. Take Kentucky's Kifu Coffee Roasters, a coffee company created out of a non-profit coffee fundraiser that turned into a for-profit company that gives back to the global community 5% of their profits through various programs such as Cows for Communities.

Recently, Kifu sent me out a few coffees to try and the first I cracked into was their Ethiopian Sidamo Korate Natural, a Kifu-proclaimed "fruit bomb" (i.e a coffee with heavy notes of fruit, usually blueberry or blackberry, showing up strongly in the cup). I tried the coffee out via drip, siphon and french press.

The drip produced a coffee that kicked off with bright blueberry, light chocolate, flemish sour ale, vienna fingers, virgin olive oil and oats amidst a medium body. A bright and nicely faceted coffee.

The french press threw out similar notes of blueberry and flemish ale, but it had more chocolate and olive oil, as well as some notes of wheat, all within a medium body. This infusion was not as bright as the first but it was still good.

The siphon really had the most in terms of chocolate, followed by blueberry, flemish ale, vienna finges, olive oil and oatmeal in a medium body. Also not as bright as the drip but still delicious. 

As fruit bombs go, I can't say that Kifu's Ethiopian was the brightest, but I can say that it was still a fine coffee, having a nice range of flavors in addition to a pleasantly sweet acidity. If you're looking for a bright coffee you can feel good about buying, give Kifu's Ethiopian a slurp. 

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

Mugged: Sumatra Kopi Luwak [Sea Island]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Sea Island Coffee 

Mugged: Sumatra Kopi Musang

Rating: 4+ [see key]

While I normally strongly push for buying locally, every once in a while it's interesting to get a product from afar. Similarly, I normally review coffees within the continent but to spice up my pace, I was afforded the chance recently to review some coffee from Sea Island Coffee out of London. Sea Island focuses on rare and well-processed coffees, offering such high-priced beans as Kopi Luwak and Jamaican Blue.

Of the two coffees I received, first up was their Sumatra Kopi Musang, a Kopi Luwak coffee that (refreshingly) lacked all the fancy stickers promising authenticity. More concerned about its overall taste and less about whether it all came from a civet, I plowed into the bag infusing the coffee via drip, siphon and french press.

The drip brought out notes of bourbon, wheat, cranberry, Total (the cereal) and maple syrup amidst a medium body. A good brew that proved sweet and mellow.

The french press held similar flavors, with notes of cherry, maple syrup, biscuits, a bit of bourbon, some bacon and a light/medium body. Also sweet and a little richer than the drip.

The siphon held out cherry, wheat, biscuits, bran and a little milk within a medium body. This sampling had much more of a single dimension to it, though still tasty.

Amongst the Kopi Luwaks I've had, this one ranks at the top (sadly I've sampled only a few and some weren't good at all). Amidst coffees, the coffee had a pleasant sweetness along with some hardy notes, but the coffee didn't have the depth of flavor that I would have liked. Still, if you're looking for an affordable and decent Kopi Luwak, give Sea Island's Sumatra Kopi Musang a swirl.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Dogwood Coffee

What does CC mean?

Subject: Dogwood Coffee

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

A rainy, early morning can really slow down the energy levels. Its on such mornings that a promise of a good coffee stop effectively gets a kick in my jig and roar in my belly. One such morning in the Twin Cities, I made plans to make my first stop at a local coffee establishment called Dogwood Coffee. A Minnesota coffee roaster and purveyor with a lot of reputed clout, their uptown location beckoned to me like a benevolent siren through the torrents of rain.

Landing at the large brick building that houses Dogwood, I sauntered inside to find the operation off to the left, occupying an open space where the border between the cafe and building lobby was at best ambiguous. Dogwood's back wall was effectively used for storage and they sported several counters, making the feel more akin to a barista competition, and topped it all with a pleasant peninsula of seating towards the front of the building. 

As I arrived close to opening, I had the barista to myself and took my time in deciding. I ended up a with a doubshot of their espresso blend and a clover of their Burundi. The espresso, pulled short with a light brown crema, had a nice lemony brightness, some coriander, filet mignon, merlot and a bit of salt, all in all a tasty pair of shots with some nice character. The Burundian coffee delivered a vibrant, delicious brew, holding notes of peach, spinach, beef broth, carrot, jasmine tea and hints of sassafras and cocoa, all within a medium, french-press-like body. The tea is free leaf.

Finishing up my coffee in the AM tranquility, I relished my Dogwood experience and heartily look forward to revisit one day. Make your way to Dogwood in Minneapolis if you happen to be in the area. 

Mugged: Kona [Brewklyn Grind]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Brewklyn Grind Coffee & Tea

Mugged: Brewklyn Kona

Rating: 5+ [see key]

While Hawaii and Brooklyn are two of the farthest apart points in the US (check a map), you can get a dose of each in Brewklyn's Kona. The second of the two coffees I had the pleasure of reviewing from Brewklyn Grind (here's the first), I made quick work of this coffee amidst the usual three means of infusion (drip, french press and siphon).

The drip delivered notes of caramel, half & half, graham cracker, sage and walnuts amidst a smooth, medium body.

The french press differed in some odd-but-good ways, offering flavors of sassafras, graham cracker, bran, filet mignon and cinnamon amidst a heavier body.

The siphon was a compromise between the prior two infusions, holding graham cracker, butter, bran, sage and a little cherry amidst a medium body.

Overall, I liked this coffee a great deal, as it offered some pleasant, sweet flavors along with some differing notes of spices and a pleasant acidity. Not the hands-down-best Kona I've ever had, but a high contender. Give Brewklyn Kona a try if you're looking for a quality American coffee.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.