CC: Cafe Del Mundo

What does CC mean?


Subject: Cafe Del Mundo

Location: Anchorage, AK

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 5+ [see key]

When I had first heard of Anchorage coffee a decade ago, the two cafes that were mentioned to me were Cafe Del Mundo and the Kaladi Brothers. Then a little under a year ago, Kaladi purchased Cafe Del Mundo, though the pledge was to keep the two separate, aiming to keep Cafe Del Mundo the same as it has always been.

With this in mind, I strode through the doors of Anchorage's oldest coffee roaster-and-retail shop, not caring so much as to whether the coffee was still true to the del Mundo ways as I hoped for a solid coffee experience. The cafe itself stood arrayed in a calm,1980s-wood-and-soft-lights manner, with a counter stretching the length of the store and plenty of hearty wooden chairs for patrons to utilize. 

Before I found a seat near two European posters, I ordered myself a drip of their Papua New Guinea and an espresso of their Espresso Blend. The espresso, pulled to a medium volume with blonde crema, held notes of milk chocolate, cream soda, cookie dough as well as some cayenne, notes of basil and a slight burnt character. The shots weren't the best but still offered a respectably balanced and tasty spro. 

Moving on to the Papua New Guinea, the coffee relayed qualities of nuts, grass, honey, slight minestrone with celery, a pinch of sage and raw sugar. A refreshingly delicious brew that proved smooth and easy to savor.

Having later tried Kaladi Brothers (that review will come soon), I can vouch that Cafe Del Mundo is still noticeably different then it's new owner. While I felt the skill in preparation of my coffee was slightly lacking (mainly, the espresso could have been better pulled), I can say that I enjoyed my experience. Give Cafe Del Mundo a visit when you're in town. 

Mugged: Better Morning Blend [Kifu]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Kifu Coffee Roasters

Mugged: Better Morning Blend

Rating: 3+ [see key]

If there's two types of coffee blends you can find at most coffee roasters, it's an espresso blend and a morning blend. The espresso blend serves a function (it's the blend we use for our espresso) but the morning blend seems to be something carried over from early 20th century advertising that really serves no concrete purpose except that it's usually a light or medium roast coffee that typically goes swimmingly with pancakes.

Recently, I had the opportunity to sample Kifu Coffee's Better Morning Blend, a light/medium coffee that appeared to have good potential for the post-breakfast coffee market. I put my pancakes aside and tried it out via my french press, siphon and drip apparatus. 

The drip produced a cup flowing with grilled steak, blackberry, curry, birch, some baked apple and a fairly heavy body. An intriguing compilation to say the least with the bright notes coupled with the steak and curry.

The french press offered similar notes of steak, cilantro, buttermilk, birch, baked apple and corn amidst a medium to heavy body. A smoother cup though still a bit off with the taste of steak.

The siphon had the sweetest cup, with the flavors of molasses, corn, bran, biscuit, maple syrup and birch amidst a medium/heavy body. 

While I did find Kifu's Better Morning Blend a decent coffee amongst morning blends, there were certain aspects to it that held it back in my book (such as the grilled steak and the heavy body). But then again, if you're looking for a coffee to go well with a heavy breakfast, this coffee might be a perfect fit (if you do give it a try, let me know).

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

new logo and design

Yes, we're changing up the design. Let us know what you think, as it shall prove to be an ongoing work over the next few weeks.

CC: Apple Pie Bakery Cafe (CIA)

What does CC mean?

Subject: Apple Pie Bakery Cafe 

Location: Hyde Park, NY

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

To be perfectly honest, a lot of mainstream chefs have let me down with the breadth of their culinary knowledge. Sure they know their food, and most at least understand their wine, but very few masters of the kitchen seem to have even heard of high quality coffee. Sadly, this seems to have stemmed largely from many sources (archaic benchmarks, corporate sponsors, etc), with poor coffee being found rampant amongst the nations finer culinary institutions.

But just when I was about to lose hope in the movers and shakers of the culinary realm, a little blue bird confided in me that the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park was serving up Counter Culture beans a la french press as well as in their espresso machine, all from within a cozy, CIA bistro dubbed the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe. Thankfully, I happened to be winding up the Hudson River one weekday and thus, I made a stop in for lunch and some coffee.

The CIA itself has a nice parking garage for visitors and finding your way through the campus was none too difficult. The Apple Pie Bakery Cafe exists in Roth Hall and is accessed in one of its many hallways. The cafe, decked in bright colors and light from large windows, was brimming with patrons, both visitors and members of the school, either eating their lunch or communing over coffee. 

I ordered a french press of a Nicaraguan (in my haste, I did not write down which Nicaraguan) and an espresso of the Toscana blend. The espresso held a monotone brown crema and was pulled to a short/medium volume. It held flavors of bittersweet cocoa, lemon, cider, potato chip, a bit of salt and romaine. The shots were definitely pulled in a more traditional (Italian) fashion but the use of great beans made this a great espresso. The Nicaraguan held notes of subtle roses, cherry candy, asian pear, sweet tea, seaweed salad and a bit of caramel in smooth, light/medium body. 

To put it succinctly, I was delighted with my experience. The CIA proved that at least some of the culinary intelligentsia in the world recognize good coffee. If you happen to be in Hyde Park or close by, stop by the Apple Pie Bakery Cafe for a stellar lunch, snack or great cup of coffee.

Mugged: Geisha [Sea Island]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Sea Island Coffee

Mugged: Geisha, Costa Rica

Rating: 4+ [see key]

It's hard to believe that coffee trees used to be confined to East Africa, especially in today's world economy where a place with the right climate will grow coffee on at least one farm. Some places, like the island of Java, trace it's coffee trees to about the 17th century, but even today some coffee varieties are still being exported.

One such variety that has gotten an excessive amount of publicity is the geisha variety, primarily for the hefty price it fetched in some Cup of Excellence auctions. Having had the pleasure of sampling some that fabled expensive coffee, I was impressed with it then and since, I've welcomed opportunities to try similar varieties. My most recent encounter with a geisha is from Sea Island Coffee with their Geisha, Costa Rica, the second of the two coffees sent out for review. I sampled it via drip, french press and siphon.

The drip relayed notes of honey graham cracker, wheat, strawberry, a bit of cocoa, anise and some peppercorn amidst a medium body. A delicious coffee though the peppercorn proved not an attractive facet.

The french press issued a brew with more graham cracker and wheat, strawberry and a little peppercorn and cocoa within a medium body. Also good minus peppercorn.

The siphon was my favorite of this coffee, demonstrating notes of honey, a bit of nuttiness, strawberry, cocoa and hay.

Encapsulated, I can't say I'd pay as high a price as the CoE geishas fetched, but Sea Island still roasts a good geisha. Especially if you're on the right side of the Atlantic, give Sea Island's Costa Rica Geisha a swirl.



note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.