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What's does "CC" mean?
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]Getting back to the basics really makes me appreciate the simple flavors of life. Sure there are times when I want an ice cream sundae with 17 toppings rolled on a cold marble slab, but more often than not I really just want a cone of good vanilla custard.
Fortunately, there many establishments have gone the route of the bare bones basics, including a few coffee bars with the philosophy that it is better to do a few things spectacularly than produce a menu of mediocrity.
One such place is Abraco Espresso in lower Manhattan. Located in a building with enough standing room for about 5 people (apparently Abraco means "hug") and some intriguing outside furniture, the building definitely gives a minimalist look to complement their "no nonsense" menu.
I ordered an individually dripped coffee called A41 from Counter Culture (Abraco's coffee supplier), which displayed smooth and tangy like fruit punch and produced nice nuances of almond. The espresso also blessed my tongue with a pair of short, velvety shots with a bright acidity and a sumptuous sweetness of a lemon bar. There is no tea but there exists an enticing selection of local and in-house fare.
Needless to say, Abraco really gave a great showing with their drinks and seems to have a lot of wonderful potential. If you're anywhere in the area, definitely make a stop by Abraco for a simple yet amazing cup of drip or espresso.
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What's does "CC" mean?
Subject: Blue Spoon Coffee Co.
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
I've always been curious what kind of coffee Wall Street traders would drink as they get ready for their crazy days. Fortunately for at least the NYC Financial District, there are a few coffee places relatively close by to grab a quality cup of joe.
One that seems outfitted for the working Manhattan-ite on the go is a place called the Blue Spoon Coffee Company, a small coffeehouse located right on Chambers Street open only during the traditional M-F work week. I had made a few attempts to stop by over the years but since I rarely went up to New York City during the week, stopping in proved difficult.
Finally, I had an excuse one day to stop by early during the rush hour commute of a Monday (which might I add, navigating the subway with that much chaos is no fun) and hence, I wandered over to their shop. The venue sits in a cute cafe with a metal exterior with decent windows and a quaint inside with a good deal of spacious seating for the space.
The coffee comes from Intelligentsia, and from what I understand Blue Spoon stands as one of the first in NYC to peddle the Chicago coffee. I had the Blue Spoon Blend, a coffee that purveyed a fiery spice on the front that ended subtly in rice pudding. The espresso, pulled short and by practiced hands, had sweet notes of strawberries and cream as well strong hints of cocoa. I didn't spot the tea.
As I had been waiting to go to Blue Spoon for a while, I was glad that it delivered on my hopes of it being worth the trip. If you happen to be south in Manhattan during the work week, make a detour to the Blue Spoon Coffee Co.
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What's does "CC" mean?
Subject: Kaffe 1668
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
Not every day do I get an actual good lead or corroboration on a new-to-me coffeehouse from personal contacts. Most often people will throw me something I've been to or have heard often, but not always do new or forgotten tips pour forth.
But just this past week I was talking to a new acquaintance and he reminded me of a place I'd heard of but had escaped my radar, a place called Kaffe 1668. With my memory freshly jogged, I made my way over soon after.
Kaffe 1668 is located a block or two north of Ground Zero on Greenwich St in a nondescript building with floor-to-ceiling windows and a simple street sign outside. The inside blew me away with an almost complete contrast, as the interior was possibly the best decorated cafe I've ever seen, with beautiful furniture (even a beautiful banquet table) and just an overall well-construed ambiance that made me want to redecorate my apartment.
The coffee comes from Intelligentsia and Plowshares Coffee Roasters, as well as a guest espresso from random roasters (this time, it was from Ecco Caffe). I had the Bolivian (didn't ask who roasted it, though I'm pretty sure it was Intelligentsia) via a Clover machine. The coffee came out beautifully, displaying hints of flowering grass and an overall taste of pomegrante. I had the guest espresso, an Ethiopian single origin from Ecco, which by far was one of the best espressos I have had in a long time; the front of the shots were crowned with the flavors of vanilla ice cream, following with some orange and semi-sweet chocolate. The tea is free leaf and organic.
Walking away, I thanked my lucky stars that Kaffe 1668 made it back onto my map as the experience was one I shant forget. If you are anywhere near Manhattan, give it a hearty try.
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This past Monday and Tuesday, the International Culinary Center in NYC and Illy Caffe held the first class of Coffee Expert: From Plant to Cup, a class aiming to educate both "devoted coffee lovers and industry professionals" on the ways and correct techniques of serving superior coffee.
Looking at who was putting on the class, it seemed that the hosts possessed some strong credentials; the International Culinary Center holds a strong culinary reputation and Illy Coffee, though a large producer of what I would interpret as sub-par coffee (pre-ground and coffee pods), has a strong legacy of quality and a strong claim to the form of espresso as we know it today.
So when an invitation to attend landed in my inbox, I decided to clear my schedule and experience the class.
I arrived Monday morning to a small lecture hall in the ICC, complete with two large La Cimbali espresso machines (Illy customized) and a large host of people ranging from local cafe owners to coffee enthusiasts. The main instructor was Moreno Faina, a formal professor of Universita del Caffe', the backbone of the class. The other instructors were Giorgio Milos, a well-seasoned barista who has claimed many awards, and three ICC instructors: Chef Candy Argondizza, Karin Endy and Alexis Kahn.
The class went much the same both days; lecture and coffee tasting throughout the day and the last two hours of both days were focused on letting the participants try their hands at making quality espresso and cappuccinos. Lunch was also provided.
In the end, my impressions were as follows:
Positives:
- Illy really seems to know their stuff when it comes to history, technique, and processes. I would have to say I learned a few things about espresso machines, barista skills and agriculture.
- Giorgio demonstrated amazing barista wisdom and skills. I learned most from the basic tips and wisdom he offered as well as his outstanding performance.
- Lunch was amazing both days.
- The coffee tastings were a great introductory excercise for those not accustomed to looking for detailed characteristics in their coffee (I found it a welcome refresher).
Negatives:
- While the presenters really knew their stuff, they hailed the Illy espresso pods and pre-ground coffee as acceptable practices in a business. Yes I know that Illy is a business that needs to make money and of course they recommended fresh ground coffee and manual espresso machines as better, but recommending low quality products as acceptable is never acceptable.
- Illy is obsessed with blending and the importance of blending coffee for espresso became a point all too emphasized. Sure blending for espresso is a tried and true means of producing consistent espresso, but single origin espresso holds great potential (not to mention sway!).
- The coffee background was extensive yet also a little shallow in my opinion. Granted I've studied my coffee textbooks, but I feel that for an introductory course there were some things that could have been trimmed down and other things that could have been expounded.
- The session seemed too specific to Illy culture, as there was little American coffee wisdom in the session. What I mean by that is that the session focused on what Illy holds as acceptable and while Illy shares a good deal of overlap into the American coffee scene, there are some differences, which most of the session attendees will encounter. I feel that if they pulled in a non-Illy guru (preferably a true coffee expert with minimal corporate ties), the class would be much more well-rounded.
- To follow the last point, the Illy influence was overall too much. There were marketing gimmicks left and right, there were account representatives and a lot of the information was Illy specific. Subtle marketing would have gone down much smoother.
My final word would be that the session was an overall decent experience. I would recommend it for anyone just getting into coffee, a cafe owner/restauranter absolutely sure they want to use Illy as their coffee roaster or someone looking to emulate Italian coffee practices down to the smallest detail.
What's a Coffee Commentary?
Subject: The Mud Truck
(a facet of Mud Coffee)
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : no
Rating: 2+ [see key]
Who in their right mind doesn't like food that comes to you on its own? Nay, I do not talk of delivery (for that incurs a tip) but of the many different mobile dining operations out there such as grease and ice cream trucks. Whether the business-on-wheels either parks in your employer's parking lot to set up shop or meanders slowly by your house with hordes of small children tailing behind, it's a beautiful marriage of convenience and calories.
For some years now I've wondered why not many people have ventured into the coffee truck business. Surely with the niches of ice cream and lunch items occupied, it's a simple expectation to hope someone will roll up with your morning espresso too. Sure I have heard tales of Long Story Short Coffee (a barista and his coffee truck tromping all over Northern Idaho) featured in last month's issue of Imbibe, but (not) oddly enough there seems to be nothing like that on the NE side of the country.
Fast forward to a couple weekends ago when meandering the streets around Soho I come across the Mud Truck; a bright orange vessel with very obvious signs of serving coffee and espresso. Acting on curiosity as well as out of the love for the aforementioned mobile food industry, I moseyed my self into the short line to sample the product.
According to the efficient (bordering on rude) barista, they roast their own coffee, available in three blends (light, medium, and dark). Deciding to leave the chit-chat at that, I grabbed my coffee and espresso to drink in a nearby park. The coffee twas mediocre; bright but cardboardy and charred. The espresso also disappointed, as the shot was pulled with a milkshake-ish consistency and tasted tremendously sharp and stiff. Didn't get a chance to note the teas.
While I am happy to have found a mobile coffee business relatively close by, I can't say I was too impressed with the Mud Truck. I'm not sure how much impact the truck facilities limited the quality of the coffee along with other factors such as the barista's practices and the coffee quality, but something needs tweaking. While the bar for the mobile food industry isn't really that high (would anyone consider Jack and Jill or Mr. Softee gourmet ice cream?), no one should allow what's been done to set a limit on what can be done.
If you're into trying stuff for the sake of novelty, definitely give the Mud Truck a try. If you have your sights on a better cup of coffee, then venture elsewhere.
What's a Coffee Commentary?
Subject: Everyman Espresso
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
An odd thing I've noticed about Manhattan; no matter the day or time, the coffeehouses always seem packed to overflowing (well, at least the good ones). I've waited in lines with over 15 people ahead of me, something that I rarely do in a coffeehouse, but I guess since it's good java in a city of Starbucks misery, my subconscious never made it an issue.
And so was the case with my first visit to Everyman Espresso, a once second location for Ninth Street Espresso which was sold apparently to a former employee. The place is right down the street (in the eastern direction) from a Joe the Art of Coffee location on E 13th S, and hence was very easy to find. When I arrived, I noticed a beautiful sign and a large store front of windows, though there seemed to be two doors (I later found out the facility is shared by the Classic Stage Company and hence, another door). Inside, the place was very open with small tall and short tables alike all clustered to the right and as mentioned before, a line almost out the door.
They get their beans from Counter Culture but for one reason or another, they didn't have coffee available so I didn't get get to sample drip or press. But the espresso, oh what a delightful sweet chocolaty smoothness it held. Wonderful. Don't think they sell tea.
Overall, no disappointment here (even though I didn't get to try the drip or press, I've had Counter Culture before and it tends to sample very well). If you're in the area, definitely meander over to Everyman Espresso and as is the case with all Manhattan coffeehouses, don't let the line scare you.
What's a Coffee Commentary?Subject: Ninth Street Espresso
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
(Alphabet City location)
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
*12/18/07 - Update follows original post
A question I've had for the longest time when I've looked at maps of Manhattan is why the East Village has no subway service at all (take a look for yourself)? In past trips with friends, this tidbit of information just meant that if someone wanted to stop there, we'd walk through it, though never did we ever make it further east then First Ave.
That was until recently, when I had finally realized where Ninth St Espresso was; smack near the East River (this was prior to the new Union Square location opening, with its many subway hubs nearby). NSE had received a whole bunch of hype, stretching from enthusiastic praise from coffee professionals to the regular press, thus I figured such a place warranted a small detour.
So on a past trip with friends, being the optimist that I am, I figured it wouldn't be a big deal to gravitate that way, though I also didn't want to drag them on a long walk only I wished to travel. Long story short, our travels didn't go anywhere near East Village (pick your battles), that is until the very end of the day when my dear angel (fiancee') and I split off to head back to NJ early in order to get home for a preplanned soiree. Seeing as we had a little time at the last minute, I begged if we could take a small detour(?) to grab coffee (a plea she knows well), to which she ever-so-graciously agreed(!).
So we briskly walked to NSE (a walk that took much longer then either of us expected) and arrived to find the place jam-packed with people, not a single table even close to unoccupied. The NSE-ers behind the counter worked in an organized flurry of action, getting people very efficiently through the line.
As noted on their site, they serve up Counter Culture out of North Carolina, a coffee roasting giant fairly common in NYC (also at Cafe Grumpy). I watched NSE brew my coffee in a french press (they don't do drip and only offer one size, which I think is 16 oz) and it came out well, with a real smooth taste. The espresso, to which they garner most of their hype, truly held up to the good reviews. It tasted great, with a nice acidity and brightness.
Overall, the stop would have proved to be much more worth the while if it hadn't been for the fact that my detour took about 30 minutes longer then anticipated. I would love to make it back to the original E 9 St location some day, but unless I'm alone or in the area, I think I'll probably stop by the newer Union Square locale.
*Update 12/18/07Quick correction about their other locations: the Union Square location is now Everyman Espresso and they now have (or have had) a location in the Chelsea Market (which is still more convenient then Alphabet City).
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What's a Coffee Commentary?Subject: Joe
(formerly Joe the Art of Coffee)
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
(9 E 13 st)Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
*Update 3/17/09
I think cities scare most people. The traffic is horrible, people seem to have a bit more of a bite to them, and navigation can be not so much fun when you're unfamiliar with the surroundings. Even though I now feel quite at home in the urban environment, I confess that even I struggled with the unease of walking in such a concrete behemoth (especially when you're the one in the group with the best bearings of where you are...).
Oddly enough, I think the wonder and unique aspects of NYC manages to outweigh peoples' trepidation for the urban environments. Maybe its the superior public transit or the overwhelming options awaiting people, but whatever it is, NYC does not lack a heavy flow of non-city dwellers.
On one particular trip, I arrived with my darling to run various errands and check out a couple of other things. One place in particular I wanted to visit was a place called Joe the Art of Coffee (which from hence forth in this post will be referred to as JTAOC), mainly because they had earned a reputation of boldly laying down a quality coffee and espresso foundation in a previously inept land of java-ignorance.
After making a quick cut through Washington Square and NYU we made our way up to 13 St to find the place, which I found easily b/c I had the address (you could see that all the way from the corner whereas the signage you had to be on top of to see). The exterior was nice but the interior was something else. The decor was very bright, the furniture quite compact, and the seating on all kinds of levels (to fit more of the masses, of which there were many, I assume). The coolest part of the whole place was the fire ladder the staff take to get to the offices.
The coffee came from a New England coffee supplier called Barrington Coffee Roasters, which when in the hands of JTAOC poured a decent cup of coffee (though try not to ask too many questions when they're busy; one or two of the baristas can be a bit short). The espresso was also a pleasing treat, with some of the barista skillty being among some of the finest I'd seen in Manhattan.
Overall, I like the outfit a lot though I wonder what their influx of crowdedness looks like on a daily basis. If anything, that would deter me regular trips if I lived nearby (it's no fun to be rushed, though I understand they need the business). If you're in lower Manhattan, definitely keep a sharp eye out for a JTAOC (they have 3 locations).
*Update 3/17/09
Joe the Art of Coffee has shortened their name to Joe and changed their coffee to Ecco Caffe.
What's a Coffee Commentary?Subject: Cafe Grumpy
Location visited: Manhattan, NY
(224 West 20th Street)Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]
On another excursion with the lovely girlfriend, we spent the day wandering the bustling metropolis of Manhattan. We took in Christmas sights, had an interesting walk through Harlem, and even spotted this curious vendor (Luscious Aixa's Paper) out of Hoboken who had some of the nicest leather-bound parchment.
Towards the end of the day, we make our way back home from the South St Seaport with an agreed stop at Cafe Grumpy (I begged), a Brooklyn-based coffeehouse that had recently sprouted a Chelsea location (Chelsea is a neighborhood in Lower Manhattan). The overall operation has received much acclaim and I figured a small detour for an after-dinner coffee stood as a wonderful idea.
My premonition couldn't have been more right. To get straight to the coffee, I stood amazed at the wonder that met my eyes when I ordered my coffee: a beautiful java contraption that makes individual cups of coffee of french press quality in a mere 40 seconds! I didn't believe it could happen for I have seen too many "pod" coffee machines that boast superior coffee and yet fail, but after watching the barista work this wonder machine, I stand convinced.
*After later research, I discovered it's called a Clover 1s and is supposedly the first of its kind on the market.
Moving on, the coffee itself was Counter Culture, a growing coffee operation out of North Carolina that seems to emphasize social conscience and high quality. I swear I've had experience with Counter Culture before, a bad one at that, but the coffee I had at Grumpy was tasty and full-bodied with very little bitterness (could it have been just the machine that made a difference???).
The espresso also tasted great. The shot was pulled with finesse and it tasted very smooth and not too bitter. Their espresso blend comes from Ecco Cafe, yet another company I could have sworn I had a bad experience with but the blend that Grumpy uses for espresso was pretty good.
The tea was Art of Tea, an operation that seems to place emphasis not only on the taste of tea but on outward aesthetics as well. From the looks of it alone, the products look appetizing though I can't vouch for it from experience.
To sum it up, if you frequent or visit Manhattan or Brooklyn, you need to make a stop by. It's worth the effort.
This almost made me jump out of my knickers with elation. A NY Times article that not only proclaims the good news of the booming attention to espresso but also correctly uses terms and analogies like a pro.
My favorite quotes:
"Most espresso drinks in this country are made with over-roasted blends on “super automatic” machines that leave little control to the person operating them and turn out anonymous brews."
"J. D. Merget, the owner of Oslo, explained: “It {roasting an espresso blend} is like grilling meat; if you char it but don’t burn it, you get to taste both the meat and the char. If you burn it all the way through, you’re just tasting char.”
What's a Coffee Commentary?*Closed Subject: The PointLocation visited: Manhattan, NYFree WiFi ? : yesRating: 3+ [see key]*CLOSED*
This past Saturday, some friends and I embarked off to NYC (not "the city", which we South Jersey folk reserve for Philly). The travel/arrival part was quite a story all to itself, with the short version as: we drove up, got turned around, parked in Jersey City, took the light rail to the PATH train, and took that (quite haphazardly as the trains run funny on weekends) finally into Greenwich Village. Anyways, one of the first places we stopped I saw from a distance. It looked a little odd but as we got closer I noticed it was a knitting cafe. Just as I was about to turn away in disinterest I noticed they had an espresso machine. Always curious, I poked my head in to inspect. I asked the usual series of questions about what kind of coffee, what kind of espresso, etc (unfortunately I did not remember a single answer) and the gentleman behind the counter politely replied with good answers (had they been bad I woulda left :) ).So the coffee was pretty good. I tried the hot coffee but since it was a scorcher, I got an iced coffee with a shot of espresso. It truly hit the spot. Fairly priced as well. As I was pressed for time (I couldn't keep my fellow travelers waiting too long...) I didn't get to try anything else. I'd have to say it's a good spot. From what I could deduce, they genuinely care about their product and the whole knitting option is a great asset to the business. I'd be interested to hear from locals what they think.
What's does "CC" mean?
