Mugged: Bali Kintamani [Convive]

Subject: Convive Coffee Roastery
Coffee Mugged: Bali Kintamani
Rating [see key]: 4+


I like surprises once in a while, especially ones that blossom into a joyous outcome from a vine of gloomy expectation. Even though they come infrequently, much like dark winters create a love for the harvest, periods of normalcy make (pleasant) surprises that are much more gratifying.

Recently, the fine personnel of Convive Coffee Roastery sent me out a coffee from Indonesia, specifically from the region of Kintamani in Bali. While many coffees from this part of the Pacific, especially Sumatra, have a reputation for being overtly deep and earthy, this one seemed to be the Napoleon Dynamite of its peers, with reputed notes of fruit and flowers. Not sure what to expect, I went to the lab and tried out the beans via pourover, french press or siphon. 

And just like that, I was happy to find the rumor true. The pourover doled out some powerful notes of sweet berry along with accents of toasted sesame seed, carrot, peppercorn, cream and minor wheat. A solidly bright cup up front with a deep and peppery follow-through. 

The french press proved a bit heavier, but still full of berry, cane sugar, pound cake, romaine lettuce and peppercorns.

The siphon conversely was the lightest brew, with practically no bite, full of raspberry, blueberry, dandelion greens, pound cake and slight pepper, making for the best of the three infusions.

In the end, I found this coffee a stupendous example of the complexity and quality an Indonesian coffee can embody. I would be curious to see how this coffee fared at a lighter roast profile, as the darker qualities only pulled this coffee down in my opinion. But if you like a coffee that delivers a fruity punch followed by an uppercut of peppercorn, check out this Bali Kintamani from Convive.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Charmington's

Subject: Charmington's
Location: Baltimore, MD
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]

When guiding a large entourage of people through the country, most people are content to frequent the many interstate truck stops for some vending machine coffee and a little rest. And while it's very fitting for time efficiency, a rest area nestled right off of America's asphalt arteries smacks of a dull, hollow excuse for refueling and leg stretching. If the opportunity allows me to take my large entourage briefly off the beaten path to break at a quality, local establishment, than so be it.

This is how I and two twelve-passenger vans found ourselves at Charmington's. Needing a break in the vicinity of Baltimore, I noticed in my preplanning that the physical location of Charmington's was but 15 minutes off the path we were traveling. And with what looked like a spacious interior, this spiffy-looking coffeehouse seemed like a perfect spot for my enormous gang to take a quick coffee break. 

Located in a large, brick building, Charmington's boasts a substantial venue with gigantic windows, two long rows of tables and a warm atmosphere that definitely gets some glow from the friendly staff. As for their menu, they serve Counter Culture Coffee and a full offering of food ranging from sandwiches to sweets. Starting off the ordering for my two vans, I got an espresso of Toscano and a drip of the Buziraguhindwa Burundi. The espresso, pulled medium with a light brown crema, dished out notes of lemon, chocolate cake, can sugar, sage and sugar cookie, proving well-extracted and flavorful. The Buziraguhindwa trumpeted out delicious bing cherry, wheat cracker, pound cake, a bit of spinach and thorough milkiness within a medium body, making for a great cup of African coffee. On a side note, I was impressed with the calm demeanor and consistent quality in which they handled the entirety of my group.

When the time came for us to bid adieu, I felt a touch of remorse that Charmington's could only be a brief respite. Hence, if you are ever in Baltimore north of the harbor and seek a great cup of coffee within a great location, check out Charmington's of the corner of W 26th and Howard. 

Mugged: Guatemala Huehuetenango [Passion House]

Subject: Passion House Coffee Roasters
Coffee Mugged: Guatemala Huehuetenango
Rating [see key]: 6+


Every time I turn on my internet surfer, it seems the number of coffee roasters has swelled even larger. Like a growing wave, the expanding number of coffee roasters makes my heart leap with joy that more and more people are coming to patronize worthy roasters, but conversely I know that any growth, while healthy, does mean an increased competition for constituents.

But one thing is for sure: with a constantly growing variety of coffee roasters, you will need curators to highlight the glorious. One such coffee entity is Coffee Kind, armed with a litany of great roasters as well as coffee equipment and brewing wisdom. Recently they extended to me a coupon so I could test out their services, and without wasting much timeI took the opportunity to order a delightful-looking Guatemalan from Passion House Coffee Roasters.

Passion House is a pretty new-to-the-scene roaster, based out of Chicago infused with what seems like vats of zeal and coffee skills. Of their many offerings, I ordered from their Ambient Genre the Guatemala Huehuetenango, a blend of various beans produced from the Huehuetenango Highland Coffee Presidium esteemed for their high quality and traceability.

After the coffee's prompt arrival, I sampled the coffee via pourover, french press and siphon. The pourover slung notes of honey, ice wine, cracked wheat, nougat, cashew and a touch of roast fowl, making for a delectable nectar with a cocoa-esque followthrough. The french press also pressed in sweetly, with nougat, cracked wheat, cashew and sweet tea dominating amidst a light body. The siphon rounded out the three with buttered cracker, nougat, cashew, cream, a bit of roast chicken and a basil hint, making for a sweet and dessert-packed coffee.

Few coffees have been as easy to decimate as this fine Guatemalan from Passion House. Coffee Kind proved a valuable presence in the coffee choosing process and with numerous great roasters and gear, they'll be more than happy to help you narrow down your decision.

Next time you seek beans, check out Coffee Kind and Passion House Coffee Roasters.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Budin

Subject: Budin
Location: Brooklyn, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]

Access to coffee roasters across the ocean has been something of a head scratcher in the past. Very few shipping and parcel services could economically get you coffee from one continent to the other well within the window of peak freshness. But recently, things have changed in the equation so that certain roasters are able to get their coffee over the pond from Europe to the States for, by comparison, what seems like a song. 

These new shipping realities, as well as the genius of bulk purchasing, have allowed for new swaths of frontier in US coffeehousing. One of the more interesting and recent openings of the past year is Budin, a coffee bar in Brooklyn serving only Scandinavia's finest coffee. Having received publicity from the local press for their unique coffee roasters, their slightly higher-than-domestic-coffee prices and their stylish nordic merchandise, I could not resist a trip to the shop.

I arrived one overcast afternoon to the unassuming, brown-framed shop with a large glass window that peered out into the calm, city street. Inside, the shop is quite voluminous; a long layout easy on the eyes that accommodates a long bar and plenty of tables, complete with the many Scandinavian wares and a patio in the back. For my coffee, I decided upon an espresso of Colombia Tampana from Norway's Tim Wendelboe, and a pourover of Brazil Fazenda Ambiental Fortaleza from Sweden's Koppi. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, relayed orange, grapefruit, wheaty beer, hazlenut, cocoa and little barley broth, making for a deliciously bright and sweet extraction. The pourover also bedazzled my tongue, with potent flavors of cherry, Cabernet Franc, dark chocolate, honey, elderflower and rye amidst a mellow, light body. 

Delighted with my coffee and the extremely friendly staff, I left Budin satisfied that I had received my money's worth. If you're looking to try out some great coffee from abroad, make your way to Brooklyn's Budin. 

CC: Cafe Stella

Subject: Cafe Stella
Location: Norfolk, VA
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 5+ [see key]

Making my way through lovely Norfolk, I was impressed to find more options for feasting than I had heard prior. Since I was only in town for a smidgen of time, I was forced to take my choices and whittle them down to pick two. The first was a grand sanctuary of southern flavor called Handsome Biscuit, which despite its quaint size was bubbling over with eager customers and made for a grandiose course of chicken and biscuits. 

The second was my coffee stop for the morning, a place that suited my companions in its geography and tentatively suited my qualifications with its foretold reputation. This coffee entity was none other than a brightly arrayed venue dubbed Cafe Stella. Situated on Colonial Avenue with a nice outside patio flanking the central door, I walked in to find a vaulted space full of eclectic furniture and vintage flare, occasionally dotted with intriguing art and populated by what seemed like a never-ceasing bustle of patrons. 

Looking to sip some of their self-roasted coffee, I tried out their espresso blend (the barista gave it no name) and a pourover of their Kenyan. The espresso, pulled short/medium with a brownish crema, ricocheted notes of milk, black pepper, butter cracker, lemon zest and spinach making for a fairly tasty infusion with only minor areas left for improvement. The Kenya held out a vibrant bouquet of Frosted Flakes, blueberry, sweet cream, tomato gravy and lemongrass, making for a syrupy sweet brew with a light body. 

After spending a little time at a wide circular table, my company and I bussed our dishes and walked out satisfied. If you happen to be in Norfolk, stop by Cafe Stella for a cup of coffee. 

Mugged: Black Medicine

Coffee Mugged: Black Medicine
Rating [see key]: 5+


The prepackaged iced coffee craze seems to be at full tilt. More than ever a thirsty iced coffee seeker can find a bottle, growler or keg of iced coffee at a local coffee purveyor so to grab their favorite chilled java for consumption at a much later date.

Yet despite the growing trend amongst great roasters, I have not had a lot of great bottled iced coffee. Many times the bottled brews are something that demands the aid of ice, and sometimes even ice does little to disperse a repugnant aftertaste. Thus when I heard about a bottled iced coffee from California called Black Medicine, I can't say I had high hopes for great flavor when they offered to send some out for review. But of course, I put my thoughts aside and put on my objective lenses to give each of the three bottles a thorough assessment.

It turns out that this blend of three different light-to-medium roasted origins (currently two Ethiopians and one Guatemalan) brewed hot-then-cooled made for an ice coffee that is hard to beat. The Black Medicine actually tasted great, with flavors of oatmeal stout, lemon, orange peel, roasted peanut and a touch of banana, making for a smooth and bright coffee with no funky aftertaste. To be fair, the coffee does have "added Vitamin C" so it's not really a truly pure coffee and so it's hard to say how much of the brightness comes from the additive. Nonetheless, the coffee goes down sweet whether one prefers to sip it over ice or drink straight from the bottle.

While there's tons of prepackaged iced coffee out there, take confidence that there are a good chunk of great options like Black Medicine. Grab a bottle at your participating retailer (especially if you're out in their neck of California) or online.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: The Warehouse Cafe

Subject: The Warehouse Cafe
Location: Jersey City, NJ
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]

Jersey City used to confuse me. When I was a wee lad, talk of JC came up between two adult relatives and as they bantered, Jersey City was conveyed to my spying ears as the NJ version of New York City (I don't recall what caused this dot connecting; it just happened). My young mind thought that it was amazing that there were two huge metropolises right across from one another. But then again, at that time I was also convinced that there was a live dinosaur buried in the backyard of my friend's house. 

Years later, my perspective on Jersey City has changed for the better and my love of this Jersey haven has grown. Not only is it a city full of history but it's got a lot of little nooks worth a visit. One particular operation to catch my eye as of late was the Warehouse Cafe, a coffeehouse located on the lower level of a historic warehouse that now contains some swanky lofts. The space is actually above street level, providing a nice patio, and with the aid of their large windows, it all seems to blend beautifully inside to the cozy, well-outfitted interior. 

The coffee comes from Intelligentsia, consisting primarily of a custom house blend and Black Cat. With my decision predetermined for lack of choice (sometimes a good thing), I had a cup of the house via drip and an espresso of Black Cat. The drip served notes of tomato, shortbread, lime juice, nougat, cider and a bit of bay leaf, making a for a medium-bodied, well-balanced coffee. The espresso, pulled to a medium volume with brownish-tan crema, held notes ginger, coriander, cocoa and a little spring mix salad; all together a good infusion of Black Cat. 

As for places I will probably refrequent, I can add the Warehouse Cafe to the short list of NJ establishments serving coffee worth drinking.  Next time you happen to be in lovely Jersey City, take a stroll over to the Warehouse.

  

CC: ReAnimator Coffee Roasters

Subject: Reanimator Coffee Roasters
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]


First impressions are a bit of a red herring. I often tell one of my favorite friends that when I first met her during a job interview, I had written her off as a snotty and demanding person by the end of 45 minutes in the same room. Of course, I turned out wrong and years later, her tribe and mine both are fond cohorts.

The misleading nature of first impressions goes for businesses as well. For example, the first time I made the acquaintance of ReAnimator Coffee Roasters was in a cozy Thai restaurant in South Philadelphia outfitted with sub-par coffee equipment. Another friend and I were enjoying a leisurely and delicious lunch when I glanced to their drink area and made out what I later learned to be a bag of ReAnimator Coffee. Not liking coffee with Thai food, I passed on the coffee but I recall my brain making an unconscious frowny face on the brand.

But like most ill-conceived notions, that frowny face quickly turned into a gaping smile with my first real interaction with ReAnimator. Then after my second and third positive run-in with ReAnimator, I became convinced that this then new-to-the-scene Philly coffee roaster was destined for greatness. Thus, when the first ReAnimator brick-and-mortar shop opened this past autumn, I was all too excited to try out their wares in their own house.

Located at one of the five points of the intersection along with Loco Pez and Cedar Point Bar and Kitchen, ReAnimator Coffee adds a much-needed caffeine haven to the area. Walking through the front door at the building vertex, I sauntered through the minimalistic interior past various tables and chairs until I reached the gorgeous, custom concrete counter at the back. After some brief barista banter, I ordered an espresso and a pourover of their Ethiopia Kochere. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, smacked of blood orange, chocolate nibs, some lime zest, sage and a touch of Wheat Thins, making for a bright and delicious infusion. The pourover version of the coffee proved sweeter and more mellow, with notes of honey, peaches, candy caramel, wheat cracker, birch and kale within a medium body.

Needless to say, I had a field day at ReAnimator. Make ye your way to Fishtown for some great coffee. 

CC: Dub Pies

Subject: Dub Pies
Location Visited: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : I think not
Rating: 5+ [see key]


Pie has to be one of the single best mediums for conveying flavor. I can think of few items that tempt me and often allude me more than sumptuous pie delights like salty honey walnut, peach ginger and fresh, no-syrup-filler apple pie. And of course, I stand with the masses whose love for pie is seemingly only eclipsed by the inability (due to finances, geography or both) to get great piece all the time.

Yet for all the wonders of pie, America has not the fervent love for meat pies that our Aussie and Middle Earth (aka New Zealand) counterparts kindle. Sure we have chicken pot pie and shepherds pie, but how many of us have had a steak mince pie or a thai chicken curry pie? Not nearly enough of us. And to battle this pie-lessness, Dub Pies of NYC beats the war drums of their pie march upon the urban landscape around them. 

One evening, I was able to make it out to their Greenwich Village shop for a savory pie before heading on my way home. To my surprise while ordering, not only do they bear great pies but also a love for great coffee. Sporting Counter Culture Coffee, I decided to order an espresso of the Espresso La Forza (a more traditional, southern Italian-style espresso) and a drip of Kenyan (I failed to note the specific origin). The espresso, pulled a short-to-medium with a light brown crema, unfolded notes of vanilla, lemon, sugar, bittersweet chocolate and a touch of pepper; definitely full of traditional flavor though it seemed it was pulled a bit hot. The Kenyan metered out a great infusion of apricot, chocolate cake, sweet Hawaiian rolls, berries and light sage, making for a smooth and bright cup. 

Thus, not only did I sate my ravenous pie lust but I also had a great coffee experience. Delay not a dub-ious second; round up your kin and make a trip to a Dub Pies location next time you're in town (be on the lookout for the trucks!) or if ye reside local, get it delivered.

Mugged: Citron and Poire [Le Palais Des Thes]

Subject: Le Palais des Thés
Teas Mugged: Le Citron and La Poire
Rating [see key]: both 4+

Having recently finished up a weekend at the NYC Coffee Fest, I am always amazed at how much of the coffee and tea industry involves flavoring. Of course flavored coffees I forcefully embargo, and syrups rarely pass through my lips (I try to keep my sweetener intake low), but natural flavoring in teas seem to be the one instance where an additive to the medium has some legitimate ability to add some quality flavor without using harsh chemicals or sugar.

Recently, I took some tea from Le Palais des Thés for a spin, trying out their Le Citron (Lemon) and La Poire (Pear). Both teas are flavored and each claims natural flavorings and refreshing results. I sampled each tea according to the brew recommendations on the product pages. 

The Le Citron smacked of lemon candy, cherry blossoms and cake, followed by a strong backbone of Sri Lankan black tea. While the taste of lemon was more akin to a sugary lemon concoction than an actual lemon, the tea all in all proved light and tart with some fairly solid qualities.

The La Poire also had a sweet, albeit more subtle, candied quality of fruit about it (in this case pear), along with notes of lemongrass, chardonnay and flecks of a deep green tea. Complete with marigold petals, this tea makes for a pretty sight and a decent brew.

While, I can't say that these two teas were my all-time favorites (I usually prefer my fruit flavorings from a fresh source), they each made for a fairly refreshing cup of tea. For a taste of France, check out these as well as the numerous other tea options on the Le Palais des Thés website.

note: tea was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: The Cosmic Cup Coffee Company

Subject: The Cosmic Cup Coffee Company
Location: Easton, PA
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 5+ [see key]


Long ago, I made many a trip back and forth between Philadelphia and Upstate NY, and in those trips I would always seek out new coffee stops. One of the potential stops if I ever went out of my way (I was mainly on 476 and 81) was in Easton, at a place called the Cosmic Cup Coffee Company. But for one reason or another, every time I had purposed to swing by, I was prevented by either incompatible hours or minor inconveniences.

But finally the fog lifted. Finding some flexible travel time, I was able to swing by the Cosmic Cup one lazy weekend. The day was lovely and the shop was aglow with cheery baristas and a gaggle of customers sitting amidst the red walls and upon a church pew bench. The coffee comes from Rhode Island's New Harvest Coffee Roasters, a reputed company that I've had pleasant experience with prior. I ordered an espresso of the Bicycle Blend and a drip infusion of the Rwanda Karongi Gitesi. The espresso, pulled short and slightly blonde, doled out notes of chocolate, lemon drops, rye toast and a little Chinese 5 spice, making for a tasty though slightly over-extracted spro. The Rwanda sprung forth a delicious assortment of great flavors such as Arcor cream-filled strawberry candy, fancy wheat crackers, nutella, a little celery, some nutmeg and a touch of green tea, proving to be a fantastically fruity and smooth coffee with a pleasant medium body.

Therefore, if you find yourself traveling through the area of Allentown or Easton (the Crayola factory is in Easton FYI), make sure to stop by the Cosmic Cup for a quality cup of coffee.
 

CC: Smile To Go

Subject: Smile To Go
Location: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 5+ [see key]

If there's one thing emerging more and more in people, it is a staunch desire to eat less chemicals. Whether that's meat free of antibiotics, vegetables sans-pesticides or groceries free of preservatives, folks seem to prefer getting away from many of the chemical additives our forefathers heralded as improvements to the marketplace.

Last I was in Manhattan, I found myself looking for some great coffee and a bit of the aforementioned nourishment. In my search for nearby places, I found Smile To Go, a carry-out and catering offshoot of The Smile over on Bond St. With both eateries known for quality ingredients on an ever-morphing, delicious menu PLUS a variety of coffee from Plowshares Coffee Roasters, I deemed it a good fit and merrily made my way over to Smile To Go. 

The space impressed me as unique and energetic, with the cozy-yet-vertically-spacious feel of the front interweaving with the bustling kitchen that made up the back 2/3 of the hall. With food second on my mind at the moment, I approached the counter to talk coffee and ended up ordering an espresso of the A-Train espresso blend and a drip of the Costa Rica Finca Gamboa. As the barista handed me my espresso, he warned me that the machine was not pulling the best shots that day and that it might be a bit sour. Sure enough, the espresso was slightly tart, smacking of pungent raspberry, but not to the point of it being unpleasant, with the other flavors of buttermilk biscuit, vanilla, a little nutmeg and a touch of clove shining through to make it a fairly wonderful infusion (aka only a touch off). The drip belted out joyous melodies of Belgian ale, apple slices, walnuts, cola, light nougat and basil within a medium body, making for a hearty, sweet brew.

As for the food, I had but a sampling that made me only wish I had been hungrier. In the end, if you're looking for a great meal to compliment some great coffee (and/or visa versa), make a point to hit Smile To Go (though get their well before the thick of lunch, as I was advised by the barista that lunch time can be nuts).  

Mugged: Ethiopian and El Salvador [Barefoot Coffee]

Subject: Barefoot Coffee Roasters
Coffee Mugged and Rating [see key]:
- Yirgacheffe Kochere, Ethiopia 6+

- Finca Villagalicia, El Salvador 6+

California is home to many great roasters, some I've known of for as long as I've cared about great coffee. One such entity is Barefoot Coffee Roasters, an operation now out of Santa Clara that has a delicious rapport for serving up delicious beans. Currently they have a mobile coffee van and 2 independently licensed retail locations, and while I hope to visit each spot soon, I was pleasantly surprised to receive two bags of direct trade coffee to try out in my abode: their Yirgacheffe Kochere, a washed Ethiopian coffee known for its vibrant flavors, as well as their Finca Villagalicia, a fine-looking coffee from an El Salvador farm with past Cup of Excellence wins under its belt. I sampled both coffees via pourover, french press and siphon.

The Kochere led the charge, sampling first in the pourover with notes of strawberry jam, fresh pineapple salsa, triple chocolate brownies, some lemon pepper and pie crust, proving rich, bright and full of flavor. The french press held out a glowing array of chocolate brownie, raspberry, strawberry Jolly Rancher, pastry dough, rose petals and a little lemon rind. The siphon ended on a consistent high note, with wisps of raspberry, chocolate truffle, apple pie, whipped cream and walnut, within a slightly deeper body. In summary, a decadent coffee full of fruity explosions and dessert-y glory.

The El Salvador also came out with top honors. The pourover trumpeted out notes of salted caramel, chocolate truffle, sourdough, gala apple, slight celery and a touch of nutmeg within a balanced, medium body. The french press presented chocolate, salted caramel, heavy cream, apple, celery and slight sourdough. The siphon was the final rocket red glare, with chocolate, nougat, sourdough, apple and slight sage blaring out of the medium body. A fine coffee with lots of sweet and deliciously tart flavors deftly intertwined this smooth coffee.

At the risk of sounding overly positive, these coffees were hands down some of the best I've had in past months. If you seek some great coffee from skilled hands, seek out the fine beans of Barefoot.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Menagerie Coffee

Subject: Menagerie Coffee
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]

Old City Philadelphia for years has been a bit of a coffee wasteland, with but a few spots of decent rapport slinging coffee in a 3-4 block radius of Independence Hall. Fortunately, the times are a-changing and visiting history buffs need no longer schlep long distances for a great cup.

The brightest of new coffee establishments in the Old City arena is Menagerie Coffee. Located on 3rd St a few spots south of Market St, this coffeehouse not only boasts a great location, but a beautiful space as well. Decorated in sleek woods and pleasant lighting, there's a spot for everyone in this well-designed shop. The coffee of course is what adds the majestic, TGI Friday-level flair, with beans from Annapolis' Ceremony Coffee AND Minneapolis' Dogwood Coffee, both roasters not seen enough in this region.

Sauntering in, I ordered an espresso of Dogwood's Neon (I love that it's literally labeled "neon" on the menu instead of "espresso") and a pourover of Ceremony's Ethiopia Worka. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, offered up notes of lemon, cherry soda, cocoa, basil and arugula amidst a full body and a velvety mouthfeel. The Worka pourover was a heavenly uppercut of fruit, specifically strawberry jam and passion fruit, with supporting flavors of maple syrup and shredded wheat amidst a light body.

To state the obvious, Menagerie Coffee offers a menagerie of great coffee options. Let not another moment delay your arrival.
   

Mugged: Kenya AA [Convive]

Subject: Convive Coffee Roastery
Coffee Mugged: Kenya AA Organic Kia-Ora Estate

Rating [see key]: 4+

Like any fan of history, I am a prolific memorizer of random knowledge that only comes in handy during games of trivia. And with knowledge comes a desire to see or experience the facts firsthand. Being home to the oldest permanent European settlement in the United States, St. Augustine has almost as long been on my list of places to visit. Sadly, my purposes never lead me to the warm sands of the city, but sure enough it will happen soon.

And though I know much of the city of St. Augustine, I knew of few great coffee options in the area until a friend of mine mentioned a friend of hers had a roasting operation in town. The name of the roaster was Convive Coffee Roastery, a small coffee business that just this past year dove into the the adventure of entrepreneurship. Sending out a bag of their Kenya AA Organic Kia-Ora Estate, I was able to try out their beans via pourover, french press and siphon.

The pourover dealt out chocolate, prune, rye, oatmeal stout and a little blackberry, with the profile proving deep and sweet. The french press extended out notes of savory herbs, cream, nougat, stout, buttered bread and a little berry. The siphon belted out flavors of cream, chocolate, oregano,  blackberry and buttered toast. 

Throughout, this was a coffee of varying heaviness, though consistent in it's sweetness and depth of flavor. Thus if you're looking for a sweet and girth-y Kenyan, give Convive a whirl either by stopping by at their location in Dos Coffee. Wine or order a bag online. 

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Harvest Coffee Roastery

Subject: Harvest Coffee Roastery
Location: Medford, NJ
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 4+ [see key]

Route 70 runs like a meandering asphalt creek across the great state of New Jersey, connecting Cherry Hill in the west with Manasquan on the coast. Sadly, for such a long road there are few worthwhile coffee stops along its entire stretch, leaving the weary traveler often bereft of delicious options.

But improvement is on the rise; recently in the past year, Harvest Coffee Roastery opened its doors in the old town of Medford. A small batch father-and-son operation, they opened a small shop to  not only peddle their beans but also to give the area a local coffee watering hole. Stopping by one gorgeous afternoon, I found their Bank St shop with a quaint rustic shop, with lots of wood and a peppering of tables in the cozy space.

As for coffee, I got a drip of their Brazil Cerrado and an espresso of their Espresso Blend. The espresso, pulled to medium/long volume with light brown crema, smacked of unsweetened cocoa, milk, poppy seed, slight pound cake and a tinge of lemon towards the last few sips; a fair infusion, with a smattering of pleasant notes surrounded by a noticeable astringency. The Brazil proved a much better beverage, singing of honey, biscuits, cracked wheat, apple, caramel and dry red wine, opening up substantially as it cooled into a smooth, flavorful coffee. 

As a blossoming microroaster, Harvest Coffee Roasters definitely has some skill in the manipulation of coffee. With some growth in the espresso area, this coffeehouse could easily be the crown jewel of Route 70. If you're traversing through Medford, definitely make a pop in.

Aces and Ates Coffee Stout

When the average Homo Sapien thinks of the predominant flavor in coffee, most would say “bitter.” A mournful vestige of the commonality of dark roasts, it’s the single facet of coffee that most coffee geeks would gladly see forgotten. And while many battle the bitter stigma with the news of coffee’s great flavors, there still remains strongholds, especially in other culinary venues.

One particular arena with a strong love affair of coffee’s bitterness is the beer world, particularly in the coffee stout. Over the years, I’ve had many tasty coffee-flavored beers, but most breweries only seem to include coffee to add a bite to their dark ales. Thankfully, brewers are discovering the other qualities of coffee that can add metaphorical jazz hands to their beer.

Take Big Boss Brewing Company out of Raleigh, NC and their Aces and Ates Coffee Stout. Utilizing a specific cold brew concoction of Larry’s Beans, which became the Aces and Ates Blend, they strive to make a beer that couples the complexity of great coffee with the wondrous attributes of a stout.

Recently, Big Boss and Larry sent me out a few bottles of the coffee stout and a bag of the coffee to take around the block. Naturally I tried the coffee first, as it stands the beverage I feel most experienced in assessing. Through several brews, the coffee consistently doled out notes of deep cocoa, cola, oats, a bit of cherry, slight pepper and tobacco, fig and corn chip within a medium body; a sweet coffee with a deep and slightly peppery notes. 

Comparably, the stout was pretty similar. A black brew with minimal head, the beer resounded notes of chocolate, fig, roast beef and caramel with a slight bitter, hoppy back end. Thick and sweet, this was definitely a full-bodied beer with lots of flavor, greatly utilized as a stand alone beverage or as a dessert beer.

Thus, if you happen to be on the lookout for a coffee beer that offers more than a bitter kick, check out Big Boss Brewing Company and their Aces and Ates Coffee Stout.

CC: Cafe Moka

Subject: Cafe Moka
Location: Virginia Beach, VA
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 5+ [see key]

Some years ago, I had planned a trip to Virginia Beach and began to seek out coffee, only to find little in the vicinity. For other logistical reasons, the trip didn't end up working out and I lost little sleep knowing I had not missed out on great coffee stops.

Then just recently, the trip resurfaced and this time, I had a little more fortune in finding a coffeehouse worth visiting. Of my suspects, one of the few that showed the greater potential was a place called Cafe Moka. Located in a strip mall of sorts with large reflective windows, Cafe Moka had a lot of tell-tale signs of quality. A quick visual scan upon first entering confirmed a lot of hunches, chief of them being a menu that offers various brew options including chemex, aeropress and siphon. To boot, the interior was well-designed, with an airy, tranquil decor of white, brown, orange and brick, all of which surrounded the long wooden floor that cradled the numerous patrons buzzing away at their tables.

Ready to put rubber and road together, I went to secure my coffee. Sadly, they don't publicize who roasts their coffee (poor guy/girl), stating it comes from a private roaster. After some banter on which method and which coffee they recommended, I decided upon an espresso of their espresso blend and a Chemex of their Kenya. The espresso, a medium-volume pull with brown crema served in a glass tumbler, gave off notes of wheat thin, dark cocoa, chianti, light cream and pepper, proving to be a dry concoction, with slight bitter notes and a mellow sweetness (aka pretty good). The Kenyan inversely proved a lot brighter and refreshing, with hefeweizen, fuji apple, caramel popcorn, sea salt and a touch of roast chicken amidst a light body, making for a delicious punch of fruit and wheat.

All together, Cafe Moka proved to be a great stop. Sure my espresso was a touch darker than I would have liked and I find secret roasters a pet peeve (I like to know who I am drinking), but both were negligible in the fact that the place boasted some skill, some quality brew and a really nice space to unwind or work. If you happen to be in Virginia Beach, definitely give Cafe Moka a stop.

Mugged: Breakfast Blend, El Salvador Cafe La Reina, Mills 1860 Blend [Queen Bean]

Subject: The Queen Bean Coffee Emporium
Coffee Mugged and Rating [see key]:
  - Organic Breakfast Blend 4+
  - El Salvador Cafe La Reina 3+
  - Mills 1860 Blend  3+

Not many companies, never mind families, can claim a 1.5 century legacy of working with coffee. But the Mills family of the Mills Coffee Roasting Company and the Queen Bean Coffee Emporium (their online retail arm) can. Hailing originally from lovely Providence, they recently sent out three coffees to my home lab, each I took to task via pourover, french press or Impress, and siphon.

The first coffee up to bat was their Organic Breakfast Blend. Utilizing three different coffees from Central and South America, the blend is roasted to a Full City Roast. Via pourover, it conveyed malt balls, red bell pepper, vanilla, seltzer, spinach and saltines within a medium-deep body. The french press proved less heavy and slightly different in profile, with notes of corn chip, raspberry, asparagus, almond, light olive oil and biscuit. The siphon proved consistent with the french press, with notes of gala apple, corn chip, caramel, almond and cream, amidst a smooth and medium body. While the pourover seemed a bit out of line with the other two (a possible "mis-brew"), the coffee overall proved smooth, sumptuous and slightly complex in flavors.

The El Salvador Cafe La Reina, a coffee grown in the Apaneca-Ilamatepec Mountain Range near the Guatemalan border, was the second one up to cup. The pourover poured out salty pretzel, honey, oats, basil, rye, slight lemon zest and a bit of apple in a medium body with a slight grassy aftertaste. The Impress similarly smacked of salty pretzel, oats, lemon zest, apple, dates and rye, all within a slightly deeper body. The siphon held steady with pretzel, apple, rum raisin, tomato, a bit of tobacco and malt, measuring smooth, deep and heavy. All in all, a coffee with a lot of positives with the sweet and bright aspects, but the strong salty quality up front and an off-note or two on the back end left me a little ambivalent.

The final coffee, their Mills 1860 Blend, was last in the order of ingestion. The pourover fiddled out notes of birch, Tootsie Roll, spinach, lemon zest and a touch of malt. The Impress similarly held Tootsie Roll, spinach, birch, tobacco and seltzer, having a slightly smoky and bitter manner to the usual bright and deep notes. The siphon concluded with Tootsie Roll, spinach, sourdough, apple, birch and sunflower oil in a medium body. In totality, a coffee that proved sweet and bright up front, yet leguminous and heavy thereafter.

Thus, the Breakfast Blend left a fond impression with the other two faring slightly behind in my favor. Needless to say, these are but three of the many coffees that Queen Bean offers, so check out their wares and choose accordingly; you'll be supporting a coffee legacy dating back to when Abraham Lincoln walked the Earth.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

Mugged: Deep Red, Ethiopia and Guatemala [Booskerdoo]

Subject: Booskerdoo Fresh Roasted Coffee Co.
Coffee Mugged and Rating [see key]:
  - Deep Red Bells 5+
  - Guatemala Huehuetenango Rainforest Alliance Cert. 4+
  - Ethiopia Sidamo Peaberry (City Roast) 3+

For a state that borders two major metropolitan areas, NJ finally seems to be capitalizing on the large swaths of thirsty coffee drinkers meandering its roads and alleys. I've seen several new roasting faces pop up in the past year (some upcoming posts on some of them) but also current companies continuing to grow their reach.

Booskerdoo of Monmouth Beach is one roaster that seems to be evermore on my radar. Recently, I had the pleasure of trying out three NJ-roasted coffees from Booskerdoo Fresh Roasted Coffee Co in my home lab: their Deep Red Bells blend, Guatemala Huehuetenango and Ethiopian Sidamo Peaberry. Except for the Guatemala for which my vacuum pot malfunctioned and went down for over a week, I sampled each coffee via pourover, french press and siphon.

The Deep Red Bells blend is a seasonal coffee that consists of two different roasts of an Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Worka Coop Unwashed Organic blended together, a method I usually don't see pulled off well, but Deep Red Bells proved the exception. Via drip, it displayed blueberry cobbler, nougat, rosemary and limeade bubblegum, proving bright and juicy with nice sultry notes of cocoa. The french press smacked of blueberry, semisweet chocolate chips, hibiscus, almond croissant, slight vanilla cookie, rosemary and a touch of sour cream in a light/medium body; a multifaceted and bejeweled coffee. The siphon serenaded me with blueberry, nougat, apple juice, rosemary and cream, making for a smooth and silky coffee full of juicy and succulent flavors.

Next up was the Guatemala, a Rainforest Alliance coffee marketed as nutty and rich coffee. The pourover tasted of molasses, pecan pie, ginger snap, pear, skim milk and pizza crust within a medium body. The french press leaned more towards plum, sarsaparilla, sweet potato, blue corn chips and dandelion greens in a malty, medium body with a cake-ish sweetness. While I found the coffee sweet and a touch nutty, their were a few heavier flavors that kind of weighed the coffee down. 

The Ethiopian, last up, made for a mildly intriguing cup. The pourover held white toast, merlot, a pinch of pepper and slight cocoa in a medium body. The french press drummed out blueberry, merlot, pepper, cloves, brisket, med body and smoother and bright with a nice complexity. The siphon detected notes of blueberry, rye, cloves, lemon pepper, brisket and red pepper within med body. For an Ethiopian coffee, the beans had some bright and pleasant facets, but all were a bit overshadowed by a spicy body and a flat, slightly astringent aftertaste

In a short synopsis, I would definitely order two out of the three coffees again (the Ethiopian Peaberry was not my favorite). If you seek some beans, take a gander over to the Booskerdoo, whether you live near Monmouth Beach or you just seek its local flavor.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Bowery Coffee

Subject: Bowery Coffee
Location: Manhattan, NY
Free WiFi ? : yes
Rating: 6+ [see key]

Wandering the streets of Manhattan, I had a good, strong craving for some smoked fish and hence, I mapped out a straight line to get to the esteemed Russ and Daughters on Houston St. And sure enough, after waiting amongst the throng to get some various tid bits of high-end lox, I was able to feast like a Nordic fisherman. But soon after completing my meal, my appetite sought a bit of a palate cleanser (fish does not linger well) and then, some great coffee.

Fortunately not far away sits Bowery Coffee, a local coffee establishment that is among the few five borough shops to roast their own beans, operating under the roaster name American Bulldog Coffee Roasters. I arrived at their brick shop to find a cozy spot, with wood slatted walls and classy white tables, complete with chipper baristas. I ordered an espresso of their Yemen and a drip of their Burundi. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, rustled up some lemon, chocolate nibs, salt, cream, Chianti and granulated sugar, making a syrupy pull with a slight tart punch. The drip yodeled out caramel, buttered corn muffin, snap peas and light blackberry amidst a medium body, proving thick and succulent.

The only thing I could think of suggesting as an improvement would be adding smoked fish to the menu, but then again, maybe that would be too much of a good thing. Nonetheless, head over to Houston St for some great beans at Bowery Coffee.

Mugged: La Flor del Cafe [Rostov's]

Subject: Rostov's Coffee and Tea
Coffee Mugged: La Flor del Cafe
Rating [see key]: 4+

It's funny that the city of Richmond has stayed off my radar for so long, and yet the place keeps coming up as of late. The most recent interaction of note was that I received some coffee from an outfit I was unable to visit on my recent trip to Richmond, a seasoned coffee roaster (since '79) of the great state of Virginia called Rostov's Coffee and Tea. The coffee sent was their La Flor del Cafe, a sun-dried Guatemalan coffee from the Antigua area, a coffee I sampled via pourover, french press and siphon.

The pourover whispered out notes of chocolate, honey on toast, basil, vanilla cream and a touch of ham; within a medium body, the coffee proved sweet and full.

The french press held out chocolate, rye toast, milk, some nutmeg and a slight beef broth. Though less sweet than the pourover, still a solid infusion.

The siphon, last and sweet, demonstrated bits of chocolate, milk, nutmeg, toast and lemon pepper. A sweet and pleasant coffee with a minor pretzel flavor on the back end.

Thus next time I'm in Richmond, I shall have to drop by Rostov's for a run of their wares on home turf. In the interim, if ye seek a sweet coffee with a soft array of hearty and spicy notes, give the La Flor del Cafe of Rostov's a go.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.