Mugged: Ethiopian [Doma Coffee]

Subject:Doma Coffee Roasting Company

Mugged: Ethiopia Organic

Rating: 5+ [see key]

On the east coast, it's not often you hear about Idaho. And having traversed most of the state on several occasions, the hype certainly doesn't mirror the reality. For starters, Boise and Coeur d'Alene are nifty cities, plus you have tons of natural sites all over the place that make it a truly unique part of the west. 

As far as coffee roasters that call Idaho home, Doma is probably the one that has reached many ears across the globe. It might be because of the press received but I think good coffee, like cream, rises to the top. 

I had the delightful opportunity to recently sample Doma's Ethiopian Organic, a light-roasted coffee that from first waft had promise of being excellent. I sampled the coffee via drip, french press and siphon.

The drip delivered notes of blueberry, milk cocoa, little grass, apple strudel and a tinge of maple syrup and cinnamon. A light and bright coffee with lots of flavor.

The french press was consistent in taste, with resolute blueberry, milk chocolate, apple strudel, nutmeg, a little grass, a smidgen of maple syrup and caramel. Also light and fruity with a light body.

The siphon finished off the infusions with a cup heavier with milk chocolate and less blueberry, but with similar notes of grass, apple strudel and maple syrup. A chocolatey and juicy coffee. 

While Ethiopians tend to be delicious, not every roaster can capture a great coffee and roast it well. Give Doma a try whether you're looking for a good African coffee or something a little different.


note: coffee was not provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback. 
 

CC: Pure Fare

Subject: Pure Fare

Location: Philadelphia, PA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

Coffee has always seemed to have a love/hate relationships amongst nutritionists. Over the years, I've heard from the mouths of experts that coffee will eventually kill me and then out of other seasoned oral cavities of others, I hear that coffee is one of the best foods I could ingest. Since studies never seem to agree, I have taken the time-tested stance of keeping my intake moderate and my outlook positive. 

But it certainly helps the positive image of coffee when venues that emphasize healthy and sustainable habits also encourage regular consumption of quality coffee. One such outfit in the fair city of Philadelphia is Pure Fare, a cafe and market where folks can grab a fit lunch and cup of Blue Bottle coffee amidst their busy schedule. 

I made my way over to Pure Fare one day when I was in the neighborhood for an errand. I headed to their 21st St location which has a minimal sign and store presence, with nice open windows leading your gaze into the long cafe. Within, the venue has a large communal table in the middle, a cozy atmosphere that felt like a cross between Reading Terminal Market and a small cafe, complete with two counters on each end: one for coffee and the other for food. 

Not in the mood for food, I silently approached the coffee counter and ordered an espresso of Blue Bottle's Hayes Valley Espresso blend and a pourover of their Bella Donovan. The espresso held notes of cocoa, ginger, lemon zest, deep prune, a touch of vanilla and sage, all in a heavy body. Overall, I was pleased with the shots, having a sweet and voluptuous manner about it. The pourover sang of juniper berries, grapefruit, wheat, cornflakes, lettuce and subtle blueberry within a medium body. Also a delicious infusion well worth the wait for the careful pour. 

While their food also looked visually scrumptious, I can heartily vouch for a good showing of their coffee. If you happen to be in Philly and in need of a meal and some great coffee, make your way to one of Pure Fare's locations. 

 

CC: Outerlands

Subject: Outerlands

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 5+ [see key]

There are few earthly delights that compare to a nice Sunday brunch with the sea air in your nostrils and a good cup of coffee in your hand. Years ago, this could prove to be a tall order purely based on the minimal use of good coffee at brunch spots but slowly, great eateries, both coastal and land-locked are coming round.

Out by San Francisco's western limits near the sea sits a couple of establishments by the shore, one of them aptly called Outerlands. Specializing in sustainable and organic local fare, their menu has received accolades and the crowds one Sunday afternoon reinforced said claim. There's a bustling counter amidst the inside and outside seating where folks can gaze at much of the menu, and if you can only stay for a spell, there's options for a quick bite as well. 

Sadly, I was not able to stay for brunch that day (they had stopped seating folks when I arrived) and since the only non-espresso coffee they offered was via large chemex for dine-in customers, I had to settle for (just) an espresso of Sightglass' Owl Howl. The shots were pulled short, held a brown crema and exuded flavors of 5 spice, lime, kalamata olive and thick black tea. The drink proved delicious and heavy, with a nice balance. The chemex coffee was also Sightglass.

Thus, the only reason Outerlands gets a 5+ is because of my circumstances in not being able to try the a chemex of their non-espresso coffee. Believe me that everything points to a 6+ and I feel a bit silly holding it back but, even though my observation of them brewing and serving it to a nearby table leads me to postulate that they certainly do a bang up job, I must leave them at a 5+ until I have tasted it with my own tongue. 

But please, by all means, give Outerlands a try as they seem to have the full-blown midas touch. If you get coffee, let me know how it is in the comments below. 

CC: Wormhole Coffee

Subject:  Wormhole Coffee

Location: Chicago, IL

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

Many years ago I read a book called Enter the Worship Circle, an interesting piece that explored the many ways a person worships God, one of them being personified through the story of a coffeehouse patron. At the time, I was more obsessed with coffee culture than the quality of the beverage, so the part that stuck with me from this book was the emphasis on seeing simple truths (specifically about worship) through unusual artistic presentations in a coffeehouse. 

Years later, even though most coffeehouses try to be more chic than eclectic, every time I hit an off-the-wall joint, my mind thinks back to the concept of simple truths in the less conventional. While in Chicago, I had heard of an establishment called Wormhole Coffee near Wicker Park. The part that had caught my ear was an attention to quality with their coffee but upon arrival one early evening, I caught sight of a full-size DeLorean sitting in the front window and I knew this was no typical shop. 

The shop carried a sci-fi theme overall, with a complex arrangement of figurines and art highlighting the various pieces of mismatched furniture. My coffee came from two sources, with my espresso using Metropolis' Red Line and my pourover Ipsento's natural Panama. The espresso, pulled short with a marbled crema, held the flavors of vanilla, bittersweet cocoa, Italian bread and sweet scallops, all of which blended together to form a great drink. The pourover demonstrated blueberry, cherry jolly rancher, wheat, 2% milk and a little cake doughnut; a coffee with a punch of sweetness followed by a subtle wheat. 

While I didn't stay long enough to analyze the intriguing decor, I found Wormhole to be just the tear in the fabric of time that I needed. If you're looking for a fun place to get some great coffee, set your coordinates to Wormhole Coffee.

CC: Trouble Coffee

Subject: Trouble Coffee

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 5+ [see key]

When you do a bit of research on coffeehouses, usually the first place you look is their website. Most have pictures of the establishment as well as the usual "About Us" and "Menu" pages, both with occasional useful information about what they really offer and what to expect. 

And a very small percentage of the time, you get a website that makes you curious as to the establishment purely by its odd nature. Take Trouble Coffee & Coconut Club, a small coffeehouse on the far west side of San Francisco that seems to defy convention, but at the same time seems to provide the necessary information if you're willing to seek it out. It did it's job on me, as I added it to my list of places to visit even though it was somewhat out of the way of my travels. 

Sporting an outside seating area complete with flower boxes and a large log, I knew I had found Trouble long before I stepped inside. The interior, while very cozy, maintained an intimate and welcoming feel amidst an array of stimuli. As for coffee, they brew Ecco Caffe, specifically blends called Elbow Grease and the Hammer, the former offered as drip coffee and the latter as espresso. The shots of the Hammer were short with brown crema, smacking of vanilla, peanut, ginger, caramel, cola and lemon; a tart yet balanced spro. The Elbow Grease drip proved (surprisingly at the time) dark, with notes of well-done steak, cigar, white bread, sugar cookies and spinach. I found out later that Elbow Grease is an attempt at a non-bitter French Roast, to which it certainly achieved a great taste compared to a typical French Roast, but I personally found it too dark to be very pleasant. 

In walking away, I can say that the only thing I would have changed would have been the Elbow Grease. Otherwise, Trouble Coffee seems like a great local hangout where folks come to commune over good coffee and toast. If you happen to be on the western edge of San Francisco, make your way over to Trouble Coffee.

CC: Maglianero

Subject: Maglianero

Location: Burlington, VT

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

Of all of the close by places that have remained elusive all of my long years, Vermont has remained at the top of my list. No matter how many vacations, road trips, business ventures and detours I have attempted, nothing could get me close to its quaint borders. 

But finally a beacon of light blazed onto my schedule and my wife's fancies, as I was able to escape with my lovely bride to the Green Mountains and gorgeous landscape of Vermont for a long weekend. Of the many things we did there, one of them was hang out in Burlington and hit a few stops of note. One place in particular stood out quite boldly, a coffeehouse very much off the beaten path called Maglianero. 

Located south of the main stretch of town, I made my way over with the wife to find a very huge warehouse space that seemed to serve a host of needs. A home base of sorts for every breed of cyclist, their interior conveys a love for bikes along with a communal space that is not just for those riding cycles. 

Aside from various visually stimulating art pieces and eclectic furniture arrangements, Maglianero primarily caught my eye with their focus on quality coffee, serving up local Vermont Artisan Coffee & Tea. For my visit, I ordered an espresso of their house espresso blend and a Clever Coffee Dripper of a Kenyan Coffee. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, smacked of apricot, caramel, a sniff of cigar, lime and cascara, all proving a beautiful and juicy symphony of flavor. The Kenyan tasted of pancakes, hot cocoa, sweet curry, kale, pulled pork and chamomile; a bright, brothy and sweet brew that made me wheelie.

Maglianero is yet another establishment that makes me wish I rode a bike more frequently. Make sure to grab the address before you adventure out, as you might miss this hidden gem if you're not careful. No matter the wheels you travel upon, give them a stop. 

CC: Angry Catfish

Subject: Angry Catfish Bicycle Shop and Coffee Bar

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key] 

 
Bicycling is a hobby I wish I liked. Because of my current work situation, it's not practical in terms of my ever-varying commute and in my spare time, I really find no joy in riding my wheels around town. Maybe one day it will work out, but for now the bikes get cooler each year and every sunny Saturday a new bicycling enthusiast is born. 

Probably the biggest common interest I seem to have with avid bikers is a love of great coffee. So often I find folks sitting at the table of a great coffeehouse in their racing leotards sipping away at an espresso. It's no surprise that some bike shops have opened an in-house coffee bar to cater to the many folks who would saunter through their doors. 

Far and away, the best coffeehouse + bike shop operation I've witnessed is the Angry Catfish in Minneapolis. A former hardware store, the shop has a substantial coffee bar off to the left that beautifully compliments the rest of the happenings of a classy bicycle store. Serving Intelligentsia, the Angry Catfish holds high standards of skill and quality that make their coffee formidable.

To mark my inaugural visit, I ordered an espresso of Black Cat and a pourover of the Panama El Machete. The Black Cat gave off flavors of dark cocoa, lemon, oregano, hefeweizen and sea salt amidst a short pull with brown crema, thus demonstrating a deliciously executed infusion. The pourover blasted notes of fuji apple, wheat and cashew as well as the subtle flavors of cumin, olive oil and honey amidst a light/medium body, all together providing a scrumptious coffee. 

Walking away, I knew that if I had an Angry Catfish around the corner, I probably would be arriving frequently on two wheels. If you're in the area, brake for Angry Catfish. 

CC: Ports

Subject: Ports Coffee & Tea Co

Location: Manhattan, NY

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key] 

New York City has always been a city setting the stride on city parks. Sure other cities may have more or bigger parks, but few can contend with the beauty and design of Gotham's. My new favorite is the High Line, a former elevated train track converted into a beautiful elevated pedestrian parkway. Even on a recent visit to the city where rain pelted off and on all day, I found a rejuvenating walk upon the High Line after a nice brunch with family just what the doctor ordered. 

But after a while, promises of a new (to me) coffeehouse wooed me away from the aged freight tracks. I walked myself but a few blocks over to Ports Coffee & Tea Co on W 23rd St, a Stumptown slinging shop with a reputation.

The outside, while typical NYC tan brick with green awning, still held charm with its nautical influences and noticeable presence. Within, the cafe has an efficient ambiance accented with large globe lights, a chalkboard wall and a steady stream of patrons.  

For my order, I had an espresso of Ethiopian Mordecofe and a drip of the Ethiopian Yirgacheffe Adado. The espresso, pulled short with a brown marbled crema, breathed subtle lime, slight cigar and italian ciabatta as well as some wisps of berry, cayenne pepper and cocoa; a delicious pull that proved balanced and interesting. The Yirgacheffe held notes of sweet corn, honey, carne asada, buttered toast, apple, sweet balsamic dressing and cocoa in a light medium body, doling out a tasty and complex cup of coffee.

While there's no shortage of great coffee in NYC, make Ports a definitive stop if you're in the neighborhood.

CC: Urban Bean Coffee

Subject: Urban Bean Coffee
Location: Minneapolis, MN (Bryant Ave location)

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

It's always nice to have a coffeehouse to yourself during the first hours of morning light. Few things couple together better than the beams of the sun, the rustling of the barista prepping for the day ahead and the taste of a delicious coffee greeting eager legions of tastebuds.

Such was my fortune one morning at Urban Bean Coffee, a lovely coffee establishment that sits as a splendid corner shop in a nice neighborhood of Minneapolis. I had awoken early to enjoy my morning cup of Dogwood prior to a days work in their beautifully designed cafe (the counter was particularly gorgeous). I had the honor of being the solo patron for about 15 minutes prior to the onslaught of regulars poured through the doors.

For my beverages, I settled on a cup of Dogwood espresso and a drip of Raccoon Blend. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, held notes of punchy lime, watermelon, basil, bran and a pleasant mouth-feel amidst stellar sweetness. The drip dripped with honey, raisin, wheat thin, a little peanut, sassafras and oregano, all riding upon a medium body. Both infusions proved fantastic. 

If you happen to fall upon either location of Urban Bean Coffee, have a grand ol' time and drink deep.

CC: Ipsento Coffee House and Roaster

Subject: Ipsento Coffee House and Roaster
Location: Chicago, IL

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

When people associate coffee as just a means to an end, it really deflates what a true coffee break can be. Instead of a glorious delight to kick off the day or a wondrous beverage to disrupt the laborious monotony, it becomes just a simple piece to the day's puzzle. I think the time you take out for your coffee should be something that brings a twinkle to your eye and a few high kicks to your mid-morning jig. 

 

One bright and sunny day in Chicago, I was able to treat myself to some coffee at Ipsento Coffee House and Roaster in Bucktown. Beating the morning rush by about 15 minutes, I took my time in absorbing their cozy shop with strategic seating and lots of energy from the chipper baristas. 

 

As for my coffee, I settled on an espresso of their Wild Fire Blend and a drip of their Brazil. The espresso, pulled short with a brown-swirled crema, held notes of grapefruit, whiskey sour, cilantro, rye and Kashi twigs, proving to be a deliciously juicy and refreshing extraction. The Brazil wove a weave of vanilla, bran muffin, almond, paprika, and a bit of hay and honey amidst a light/medium body; a mellow and delicious coffee. 

My Ipsento coffee experience set my spirit aflame with satisfaction and glee. If you happen to be in Chicago and you're in need of great coffee, taste the wares of Ipsento.

 

 

Mugged: Indivisible Blend [Starbucks]

Subject: Starbucks

Mugged: Indivisible Blend

Rating: 4+ [see key]

Starbucks has historically been a mermaid bent on dark roasts. Instead of showcasing the nuances of coffees in light and medium roasts, the green machine put all of her chips in the cloaking flavors of dark roast oils, which tend to make most coffee taste similarly ashy and bitter. Sure some people love their darkness and many others don't even notice aside from the pungent notes of sugar and cream, but for someone who likes black coffee, I turned my back years ago and never really looked back.

But it seems the years have led Starbucks to the conclusion that some folks like light and medium roasts and hence a few months ago, they began to change their strategy with the advent of their Blonde Roast. Their lightest roast ever, free of all exterior oil, I wondered as to how these beans would fare against similar beans at chains like Dunkin Donuts. My opportunity came with their newest Blonde Roast, the Indivisible Blend, which showed up at my door a few weeks ago. Not only did it have a patriotic flare just in time for the summer holidays, but it also pledged a portion of each sale to the Create Jobs for USA fund.

With my curiosity piqued, I cracked open the bag and sampled it via drip, french press and siphon.

The drip held out notes of cookie and caramel (like a Twix), hard pretzel with extra salt, spinach and tootsie roll amidst a heavy body. Twas good but a little too salty and a bit heavy for me.

The french press proved better than the drip, holding a lighter medium body with notes of caramel and cookie, spinach, a bit of apple and a pinch of salt.

The siphon offered the best of show, with heavy flavors of caramel and cookie, almost syrupy in potency but light in body. Some salt and tootsie roll also made appearance on the end.

Though the coffee proved a tad stale in each infusion (sadly normal for large roasters), it seems Starbucks has found its non-dark roast stride amongst other giants like Archer Farms and Dunkin Donuts. If you're a fan of non-dark roasts and you frequent Big Green, sample some of their the Indivisible Blend. 


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback. 
 

Mugged: Java Bean Plus

Subject: Java Bean Plus 

Mugged: Various

Rating: 4+ for Mexico and Guatemala
3+ for Costa Rica [see key]

Most coffee that you get at a coffeehouse you can also get direct from the roaster on the internet. But what if coffee roasters sourced only through their wholesale accounts, empowering each coffeehouse to be a more exclusive source for their patron's coffee? No matter your view on middle men and proprietary blends, the concept is certainly intriguing and not very common in the coffee world.

Coffee provider Java Bean Plus is one of the few coffee roasters I know of that sells their coffee exclusively through their wholesale accounts. Since I've never had a drop of their coffee before, I was curious to give three of their light roast coffees a whirl. They sent out their Mexico High Grown, Guatemala Antigua & Costa Rica Tarrazu; all of which I sampled via drip, french press and siphon (except the Costa Rica via siphon, as my siphon decided to break prior to its occurrence).

The Mexico High Grown drip produced notes of whiskey, honey, wheat cracker, a little fresh peanut and malt within a medium body; a deep but sweet coffee. The french press demonstrated wheat cracker, corn flakes, molasses, parsley, fig and some prune on the end with a lighter body; a deep wheat and sweet brew. The siphon relayed a slight whiskey, honey, cracker, heavy malt and a medium body, painting a deep, smooth and slightly sugary cup. Overall, a sweet coffee with nice notes of wheat and deep fruits.

The Guatemala Antigua drip smacked of life cereal, bran, a little cream, celery and a pinch of salt and plantain, all together making a smooth and sweet coffee with a bran shadow. The french press held glazed doughnut, prunes, spinach, salt and life cereal which was similar to the siphon that gave sweet wheat notes, life cereal, spinach and a bit of salt. In the end, a decent full coffee to sip with cereal.

The Costa Rica Tarrazu was the darkest of the three, with a noticeable but slight presence of oil on the beans. Its drip sang of malt, heavy root beer, mint, sirloin lemon pepper and sweet cream on end; a heavy bodied infusion that held a good deal of pepper and savory qualities. The french press, proving much smoother than drip, parried with root beer, cream, lemon with less pepper and some fig. As I didn't get to try out the siphon on this one, I had to go off the drip and french press in that this coffee held more savory and peppery notes then I would have liked.

While I found the Mexico and the Guatemala palatable coffees with nice flavors, I wasn't as big of a fan of the Costa Rica given it's darker qualities. Thus, if you're a coffee business looking for a decent coffee roaster who will never sell alongside you, give Java Bean Plus a go.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Spyhouse Coffee

Subject: Spyhouse Coffee & Espresso

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

When a good friend of mine went out to Minneapolis back in 2010, he came back with a frustrated lament of not being able to find many good coffee spots in the city. Having since scoured the City of Lakes coffee scene in my own adventures, I found his complaint emptier by the coffee stop. 

One of the glorious and slightly accidental finds was Spyhouse Coffee & Espresso on Nicollet Avenue. I had done my research prior to my arrival in the city but I did not find contentment in my final list, so on the fly I did a quick internet search for coffee nearby and BAM, I spotted Spyhouse. The qualifications spoken on their website closed the sale and I soon found myself standing outside their rather spacious corner shop, complete with an outdoor seating area that could charm most to forsake the AC. Moving inside, the digs proved visually enticing as well, with jazzy furniture, great lighting and lots of interesting art pieces. 

The coffee comes from three excellent roasters: Ritual, Verve and Coava. I had Verve's Street Level via espresso and Ritual's Monte Copey Costa Rica via Cafe Solo. The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, trumpeted delicious notes of dark cocoa, lemon, ginger, coriander and flecks of spinach and rare steak. The Costa Rican delivered cranberry, vanilla wafer, romaine, peanuts and a little caramel, all combined in a mellow yet vibrant brew. Both drinks proved well-crafted and delicious.

I count my blessings that I was able to experience some great coffee in one of their outfits. Unlike my friend, make it a point to spy out a Spyhouse location when you're in Minneapolis.

CC: Four Barrel

Subject: Four Barrel Coffee 

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

The first time I toured San Francisco in '07, the coffee scene appeared strong, touting such giants as Ritual and Blue Bottle. Yet looking back, it was not nearly as rampant as it is today so during my most recent expedition, I came with a small book full of places to hit. Close to the top of the list was Four Barrel, an establishment that had garnered much praise for their skill in roasting and attention to detail behind the coffee bar.

I made my way to their Valencia St location one afternoon. Doing an initial drive past to make sure I had the right spot, I was surprised to find the parking spaces out front outfitted with an iron-framed seating area, consisting of a wooden bar that faces the cars whizzing by (a style of outside seating that you would rarely see on the East Coast). After parking, I backpedaled to a very popular Four Barrel. The interior appeared voluminous despite the masses, with wood everywhere (rafters, bar, tables, etc) and plenty of artistic elements (like stuffed boar heads) to tie it together. 

When it came time to order, I ordered an espresso and a french press of a Kenyan. Not remembering to ask when I ordered and being deterred by a heavy volume of orders, I did not get the espresso's name, but the mystery did not detract from its pleasant flavors. The espresso was pulled short, displaying a nice brown crema and held out notes of sea salt, bourbon, balsamic vinegar, fig, au jus and croissant. The Kenyan spoke of Cream of Wheat, hazelnut, a bit of raspberry and iced tea amidst a smooth body; a refreshing coffee through and through.

At the risk of sounding obvious, Four Barrel proved well worth the stop. If you live in or pass by the city of San Francisco, make sure to make landfall at 375 Valencia St.

CC: Peace Coffee

Subject: Peace Coffee

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

A lot of coffee establishments promote sustainability and social justice, but very few seem as entrenched as Peace Coffee of Minneapolis. Created initially by the Institute for Agriculture and Trade Policy to help coffee farmers find a consistent well-paying outlet for their coffee, Peace Coffee operates on what looks like a pretty large scale, always looking to offer coffee that will help the farmer and good ol' Earth. 

But unlike many crusading coffee entities bent on saving the world, Peace Coffee actually has earned a reputation for outputting a good cup of coffee as well, both in their whole beans as well as in their store. Wanting to try out the retail arm in a proverbial arm wrestle, I left a piece of my schedule wide open for a piece of peace, quiet and coffee at Peace Coffee. 

Prancing over to their Wonderland Park location, I found an unmissable blood red brick building with plenty of outside seating and large open windows. Within, the space is spacious, minimal and inviting, with bright colors, an array of places to sit and lots of cool accents (I like the disco ball).

For my beverages, I ordered a pourover of their Guatemalan and an espresso of their Espresso Blend. The Guatemalan proved delicious, with notes of prune, hay, light cocoa and hazlenet in a light/medium body. The espresso, pulled short with dark brown crema, held a peaceful balance of flavors, with blood orange and pepper balancing out with chicken broth, raisin and spearmint. 

I humbly submit that I thoroughly enjoyed my coffee and time at Peace Coffee. If you're in town and you're looking for some great coffee, give Peace a chance. 

CC: Toby's Estate

Subject: Toby's Estate 

Location: Brooklyn, NY

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

Back when I first became fanatical about coffee back in 2005, I noticed that Australia seemed to have a lot going on with specialty coffee. Ever since, I've kept a bit of a peripheral eye on happenings down under, hoping silently that one day I could save enough loot to make a full fledged trip to the wonderful land of Oz. 

Yet one need not traverse halfway around the globe to sample Australian coffee culture. When I went to London a year or so ago, I couldn't help but notice the indelible mark the Australians and Kiwis were leaving on the London scene. In a lesser sense, but all the while growing, NYC has been getting its fair share of the influence. Looking to one of the more notable of the Aussie coffee developments, in beginning of 2012, one of the finer coffee operations of Australia set up its North American flagship in none other then Williamsburg, Brooklyn.

Toby's Estate is a coffee operation that seems nicely represented in their home continent, where many major cities seem to be brimming with locales where you can pick up a cup or bag of their coffee. Recently, the operation made landfall in lovely Brooklyn in a huge grey brick building with lots of space. While the outside boasts a clean look with large windows, the interior is a vaulted room of warmth, with large shelves boasting curios and merchandise as well as a large seating area with substantial furniture. 

Stepping up to the efficiently running coffee counter, I ordered an espresso of their Bedford Blend and a pourover of their Ethiopian Yirgacheffe, both of which were served with great cheer. The espresso, pulled short with a light marbled crema, smacked of sweet lemons, cocoa, nutmeg, pepper, cane sugar and sourdough; while not too acidic, it held a predominant brightness and sweetness. The pourover of Ethiopian Yirgacheffe delivered a resoundingly delicious brew that rang of milk, chocolate, fluffy biscuit, apple, citron and a bit of seaweed; a hardy coffee with a smooth, medium body.

Needless to say, I had a bonzer experience all around. While it's not exactly a trip to the land of wonder, it's the next best thing so if you happen to be in Williamsburg or nearby, offer Toby's Estate a visit.

Mugged: Ethiopian Yirgacheffe [Rockin' Coffee]

Subject: Rockin' Coffee

Mugged: Ethiopian Yirgacheffe

Rating: 3+ [see key]

The second coffee I slurped of from Rockin' Coffee was their Ethiopian Yirgacheffe. A fair looking medium roast, I sampled it via drip, french press and siphon infusions.

The drip produced a cup noted with wheat, strong malt, roasted fennel, pear skin, chicken and a little cardboard. While a bit of a rough and alliaceous brew, the coffee did prove slightly sumptuous.

The french press fared best, with a bright quality that offered flecks of apple as well as notes of wheat, caramel, fennel and pear skin amidst a brothy undertone.

The siphon infusion proved more savory, with roasted fennel, wheat, pear, malt and broth. A fair brew with a medium body.

All in all, this Ethiopian held a noticed brightness and other positives to its flavor, but the savory and sometimes tough qualities made it a hard coffee to love. Give this Ethiopian a try if you're looking for such a brew.


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback. 

CC: Rustica Bakery

Subject: Rustica Bakery 

Location: Minneapolis, MN

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

Like many a small boy, my mom liked to take me shopping and one of our infrequent stops was at a little bakery close to home. An old Italian-style bakery brimming with jelly-filled cookies and old-fashioned pastel cakes, I distinctly remember not liking their treats at all. Why would I want an apricot jam sugar cookie when I could have a Tastykake butterscotch krimpet or a Hershey bar?

Thankfully, a little wiser with age, my narrow view of sweets has faded and I've grown to appreciate the many varieties of baked goods and baking styles. Also with age, I've also come to recognize that any troglodyte can bake a cake, but it takes a master baker to make great pastries. Couple that skill with a quality coffee operation and you have a rare gem found ever sparingly. 

While I was in Minneapolis I happened upon one such gem called Rustica Bakery, an artisan confectionery in Calhoun Village. I had heard their baking praises sung like sweet yodels in the Alps with a possible complimenting harmony that they also slung local Dogwood Coffee with skill of a fine accordion player. 

Making my way over with little challenge in finding parking (twas a busy day), I walked into their spacious cafe. The interior radiated an old world feel coupled with a modern layout, with plenty of sturdy, chic furniture of wood, as well as pleasing lighting and bountiful shelves of delicious creations.

Looking to their coffee, I ordered an espresso of Dogwood Espresso and a Clover brew of Brazil Serra Negra. The espresso, pulled short with even brown crema, held notes of vanilla, pepper, lime, merlot, poppy seed and sea salt; a flavorful and intriguing infusion that left me chipper. The clover brew of the Brazil delivered flavors of roasted lamb, cashew, green apple candy and seltzer amidst a light body, which easily spelled a hearty yet slightly tart brew. 

My coffee experience coupled with a few baked items tucked away for later (all of which proved wondrous) made for a bakery experience that will sit high in my register. Give Rustica a visit if you're in Minneapolis. 

Mugged: Rwanda [One Village]

'

Subject: One Village Coffee 

Mugged: Rwanda Gatare Station Bourbon

Rating: 4+ [see key]

Despite living and frequently traveling around the Philadelphia area, I've had surprisingly few dealings with One Village Coffee. Based out of Souderton north of the city, One Village has often served up decent beans in the times I've found them. Hence when an opportunity recently presented itself to sample their wares at home, I jumped at the chance. 

The first of the two coffees sent was their Rwanda Gatare Station Bourbon, a light roasted, wet-processed coffee that I sampled by pourover, siphon and french press infusions. 

The drip produced a brew that poured out a mild strawberry milkshake, Nesquick, some hay, corn chip, black tea and deep cherry on the back end. The resulting coffee was a flavorful yet mellow brew.

The french press demonstrated strawberry, wheat, a bit of cream and a nice tang of lemon. The brightest of the three cups, this infusion also held the least nuance.

The siphon rallied with more of a honey sweetness as well as heavy notes of cream, bran and twigs, along with flecks of sesame seed, well done steak and scotch amidst a medium body. A much more pungent concoction with a few odd notes, but overall still tasty.

To concisely put it, this Rwandan offered a good coffee that held my interest throughout. Give this Rwandan a go if you can get your mitts on it.  


note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: McCafferty's

Subject: McCafferty's

Location: Fairbanks, AK

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 4+ [see key]

When I go with others on trips, no one volunteers to wake up extra early with me and hit a coffeehouse first thing. Truth be told, most of my family and friends think it psychotic that I wake up with the sun just so I can try out a new coffeehouse, but then again, I guess not everyone gets the same child-like euphoria upon discovering a local coffee gem.

While I was in Fairbanks, I awoke with the dawn to visit a coffeehouse and roastery that I had read kind words of, a place dubbed McCafferty's. Located in the historic and uniquely charming Fairbanks downtown area, I found McCafferty's in an unassuming building with large glass windows. Inside the place had multiple levels with a mishmosh of furniture, decent lighting and lots of local art. 

In ordering, I got an espresso of their espresso blend and a drip of the Costa Rica Tarrazu. The espresso, pulled medium-long with a blonde-ish crema, presented the flavors of cherry, chocolate, pepper, english muffin and cabbage with a buttery aftertaste and a slight dark aura to it; a fair spro but their extraction proved not as optimally skilled as I would have hoped. The drip of the Costa Rican held wheat, baked apple, oak, brisket and wheat grass in a light/medium body, a pleasant cup of coffee though some of the flavors felt a little faded. 

While I've had better early morning coffee destinations, McCAfferty's proved a decent Alaskan gem to rise for in the AM. If you happen to be in downtown Fairbanks, give McCafferty's a go.

  

Ekobrew: Can It Redeem the K-Cup?

Subject: Ekobrew

Rating: 5+ [see key]

Over the past few years, the k-cup phenomenon has been sweeping the land. While these machines utilize non-recyclable pods full of pre-ground coffee that go for almost $1 a piece, people have been buying them up like beanie babies. The selling points seem to be that people find it fun/exciting to brew the pods and that the brewing of said pods is super quick and simple.

Now for these past few years, I have been completely opposed to this rising trend and still today, I 100% oppose the use of the single-use k-cups purely for environmental reasons (it really is needless waste), though the poor coffee aspect is also reason enough to embargo the pods as well. But since these pod coffee machines do not seem to be disappearing, I felt it was high time that I explored reusable k-cups to see if they could put forth a decent cuppa' joe.

Stopping by a coffeehouse in my travels (Crescent Moon Coffee of Sewell, NJ), I noticed a display for Ekobrew, a reusable k-cup that claims to facilitate the brewing of a quality cup of coffee in a k-cup machine using your own coffee. Curious to see if good coffee could be had by such means, I got my hands on an Ekobrew reusable k-cup and borrowed my parents' k-cup coffee machine to try it out.

Taking a look at the methodology of how a (reusable) k-cup works, there are two things that stood out: the necessity for an even grind and that the coffee granule size needed for optimal brewing was going to have a greater effect with the k-cup then in your regular drip or french press infusions. Given the short coffee and water interaction, the coffee grinds need to be even for duplicable and quality results (i.e. you need a burr grinder and not a blade) but also much like espresso, the granule size of the coffee grounds would need to be at the right size for the water utilized; otherwise the coffee will be too weak or two strong.

So using several different coffees, I did a side-by-side comparison between a regular pour-over/drip infusion and the Ekobrew, trying to use as similar ratios of coffee to water as possible. I also fiddled with granule size between coarse and fine, trying to see how it would affect the coffee in both cases.

Overall the results were positive. The Ekobrew produced a fairly decent cup of coffee that tended to have a french press-like body with some occasional fine silt. Compared to the drip/pourover, the Ekobrew produced a lighter coffee even with a fine grind, but a stronger coffee could be made by adding less water to k-cup process. It also seemed that more full-bodied coffees did better in the Ekobrew given the quick time of infusion.

Thus, I would have to say that if you're dead set on keeping your k-cup coffeemaker, at least get a reusable k-cup like the Ekobrew. Not only can you use it to kill less of the environment, you can also utilize fresh, well-roasted, whole bean coffee to make a pretty tasty cup of coffee. But nonetheless, I still hold that there are many better ways to make your coffee. 


note: Ekobrew was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Matching Half Cafe

Subject: Matching Half Cafe

Location: San Francisco, CA

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

As many folks of the Bay Area espouse, despite the small land mass there sure is a vast variability in climate. It can be foggy five blocks from someone lying out in full sun. Do people exaggerate? Sure. Did I experience this weather weirdness? Absolutely. 

One sunny (then foggy, then cloud choked & then sunny again) morning, I took a trip over to Matching Half Cafe for a visit. Rumor had it that they were pulling skilled shots with great coffee over in the Western Addition, using local Sightglass Coffee and also providing good food, beer & wine. Finding a parking spot downhill, I hiked up to a corner building with a red wood exterior, a heavy section of outside seating and nice open windows peering into the muted space within, complete with a fair amount of inside seating and metallic blue walls. 

As for my coffee, I ordered an espresso of Owl's Howl and a Sightglass El Salvador via Chemex. The 'spro, pulled short with brown crema, tasted of chocolate, lemon, cane sugar, vanilla icing, salt and cilantro; a delicious infusion with a nice body. The El Salvador smacked of honey, melon, rye toast, caramel, a subtle earthiness, hefeweizen and cream, gladdening my tongue with the nuances of a smooth and sweet coffee. 

To put it plain, Matching Half ponied up a whole lot of excellent coffee. If you happen to be in the Bay Area, make a stop by. 

Mugged: Sumatra Permata Gayo [Rockin' Coffee]

Subject: Rockin' Coffee

Mugged: Sumatra Permata Gayo

Rating: 4+ [see key]

New to the coffee scene as of Fall 2011 is Rockin' Coffee, a coffee roasting operation birthed from PAID Inc's love for freshly roasted coffee. The first of their two coffees that I had the pleasure of trying was their Sumatra, a coffee produced from the Permata Gayo Co-op in North Sumatra. Roasted medium, I brewed infusions of drip, siphon and french press accordingly. 

The drip threw out notes of biscuits, honey, sweet mango, slight cloves, leather and jasmine amidst a medium body. A sweet and wheaty coffee.

The french press produced the flavors of biscuits and more of a concentrated cherry with maple syrup sweetness, along with bourbon and slight bacon, within a light/medium body. A smooth, eclectic infusion.

The siphon held out bourbon, notes of wheat, bit of apple skin, mango and jasmine in a medium body. Like the drip, this brew was full of wheat and sweet characters. 

While flavor-wise this Sumatran was diverse, it proved fairly tasty. If you're in the market for a decent coffee of Sumatra, check out Rockin' Coffee.

note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.

CC: Istria Cafe

Subject: Istria Cafe

Location: Chicago, IL

Free WiFi ? : yes

Rating: 6+ [see key]

While coffee gets much of it’s spotlight in the morning hours and amidst the work day, I have to admit that some of the best coffee times I have are at night when I can slow down and relax with my coffee. Given a divine blessing, caffeine rarely affects my sleep patterns, so while some might unwind with a cup of chamomile, I’ll occasionally treat myself to an espresso or pourover as I sit in my ninja turtle footie pajamas.

Where the evening coffee treat really proves lovely is when I’m in a town with a coffee establishment with later hours. Chicago being one city with a plethora of cafes that are open when the street lanterns are lit, I made my way to a local coffeehouse called Istria Cafe right after clocking out of work that eve. Located at the Hyde Park Art Center, it proved close to my last stop on business.

The café has large open windows that allow the approaching patron to take in the café well before the door opens. Inside, the café is a mix of orange-cushioned walls and white counter space, complete with beautiful lighting and plentiful seating. For my order, I decided on an espresso of Intelligentsia’s Black Cat and a pourover of Counter Culture’s Ethiopian Idido.

The espresso, pulled short with brown crema, held notes of lemon, cola, bitter cocoa, a bit of pepper and a dash of dough; a good pull of Black Cat. The pourover plowed into my tongue like a mac truck of raspberry and tomato, with aftershocks of wheat, rose petals and potato skin. The pourover proved well extracted and quite delicious. They also serve gelato, free leaf tea and a decent food menu. 

Aside from some minor issues in finding a street parking spot (it is Chicago), Istria was a glorious stop that ended my work day and gave heed to my evening activity beautifully. Give Istria Cafe a hearty hello if you're nearby. 

Mugged: Vista Alegre [Henry's]

What does Mugged mean?

Subject: Henry's House of Coffee 

Mugged: Vista Alegre (Brazil)

Rating: 3+ [see key]

When I get coffee, I like to look up the origin if the specific location is given. With the second coffee I had from Henry’s House of Coffee, I looked up the locale of Vista Alegre on the webs to try to get an idea where it hails from (Henry's site didn't have specifics). According to Coffee Review, there happens to be one estate of that name that has made it's name as an operation that dry processes their cherries by leaving them on the trees to dry (instead of drying post-harvest).

Curious as to whether Henry's Vista Alegre was such a coffee, I was interested to see what qualities the coffee would hold. Preparing it in the usual three methods of drip, french press and siphon, I commenced sipping.

The drip birthed a cup brimming full of tobacco with cloves, all spice, tootsie roll, rye, a little vanilla and a hint of lime; a smoky yet sweet coffee with a medium body.

The french press also held notes of cloves, tootsie roll and vanilla as well as a little sesame seed. While a little thicker, it was still sweet and tobacco-esque.

The siphon achieved higher levels of vanilla and a mellower profile, with smoother flavors of cloves, cocoa and vanilla.

Given that this coffee was roasted a bit dark, it was not surprising that there existed a cloves-centric presence, but fortunately it was decently balanced with the sweet aspects. The coffee didn't really produce the round fruitiness I would associate with dry processed coffee, but then again, maybe it's a different coffee if roasted lighter. Not my favorite Brazilian coffee but by no means my least. Give Henry’s Brazil a go if you’re looking for a darker coffee with nice compliments of sweet and smoky. 




note: coffee was provided free of charge and the above review is objective feedback.